The Modern Restaurant at MoMA: What to Know Before You Go

For my birthday this year, my husband surprised me with an epic New York date: We visited Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) and then dined at The Modern, a two-Michelin-starred contemporary American restaurant.

The restaurant is housed within the museum, overlooking a sculpture garden, and surrounded by the lively Bar Room and the outdoor Terrace—both of which share a separate menu. (Tip: For a super snazzy event, The Modern offers the Kitchen Table, a front-row seat in the restaurant’s kitchen for up to four guests “with an enhanced tasting menu by Executive Chef Tom Allan.”) We dined in the Modern’s main atrium, our chairs turned slightly toward the garden view.

Our review? Worth it—for people who love food, enjoy a long dining experience, and like an attentive server. I will note that this restaurant had a slightly more casual feel that some of the other fine dining experiences we’ve tried over the last few years. For the most part, I enjoyed that distinction. The servers weren’t stuffy in the slightest, and I loved chatting between courses. It was perhaps the bathroom that was the strangest part. I couldn’t quite get the door to lock or find the trash can. But I’m not a restaurant critic, and I don’t really care if your bathroom is chaotic as long as I get a killer cocktail.

If you’re interested in dining at The Modern, or just want to see some fun photos, keep on scrolling. I’ve also sprinkled in some tips for getting the most out of your meal.

Visiting The Modern in August 2023

Reservations

The Modern restaurant accepts reservations up to 28 days in advance. The website turns over at noon (East Coast Time), and available spots fill up quickly. For example, on September 9th, the farthest you can book in advance is October 7th starting at 12:00 pm ET.

Payment and Tipping

The Modern runs like a typical restaurant, with the check dropped at the end of the meal sans tip. The one exception is if you’re dining at the Kitchen Table, the exclusive behind-the-scenes space with an enhanced menu. To book this option, you’ll be asked to pre-pay for your meal. This is currently listed at $325 per person.

The current prices for The Modern’s main dining room are $250 per person for the tasting menu (six main courses, two desserts, and a surprise or two) and $195 for the wine pairing. We opted for cocktails over wine, which cost $20 each. There is also a prix fixe option during lunch for $150 per person.

We enjoyed a $100 discount via the inKind app, a platform that allows you to acquire bonuses for dining at select restaurants in the United States. The best part was that the Modern didn’t make the discount awkward. It was very simple to use the app, and our server was happy to assist if we had any questions. Here’s more information about the inKind app (and a bonus!).

Dress Code

Jackets are not required, but most men were wearing one. Business causal seemed to be the norm. A formal dress code isn’t currently listed on their website or in the reservation confirmation.

Food & Drinks

There were a few stand out dishes—one of which is the chef’s famous “Eggs on Eggs on Eggs.” It’s composed of an egg yolk, sturgeon caviar, and egg sauce presented in an egg-shaped dish with a crispy bread slice for dipping. This was phenomenal, and probably the part of the meal I remember most. Other favorites were the sweet corn and peekytoe crab and the roasted lobster with lemon grass and summer squash. Ryan doesn’t always prefer lobster to other meats, but this was perfectly cooked and sitting in a delicious froth. The duck was also both crispy and tender. Every time I eat at a fancy pants place (not often), I forget that well-cooked duck is pretty magical. Ryan could have gone for a scoop or two more of few of things; I was in a comfortably full place.

The chef’s signature dish: “Eggs on Eggs on Eggs”

I didn’t think I’d care much about the sorbet, partially because I usually lose steam by the dessert, but the summer melon and verbena course was so refreshing. I had no idea was verbena was—if you’re in the same boat, it’s a flowering plants in the genus Verbenaceae, comprised of 150 different species. The sorbet had a light, lemony taste that paired well with the richer melon flavor.

We sampled four cocktails. Of the two I tried, the Paper Plane was very tasty, but I have a friend who makes them to perfection and he’s spoiled me on ordering them in restaurants. The Martini from their Classic menu was my favorite. It was mixed with “Brooklyn Gins, Vodka, Dry & Blanc Vermouths, Pear Eau de Vie,” and garnished with an apple that tasted both sweet and salty. I still think about that garnish, and I wish I’d had two!

Plate showing lobster in a yellow froth, topped with summer squash. A breadbasket and butter is in the background.

I didn’t leave a single drop of this broth! There’s a lobster hiding under the summer squash.

Service

We really enjoyed our server, Steve. He was both very knowledgeable and personable. At some tasting menus, the waiter doesn’t have a spot of personality, or you’re seeing new faces throughout the evening and don’t have the opportunity to connect.

A happy birthday message from “The Modern Team”

Museum

This date night was made all the more fun with a trip to the MoMA prior to dinner, which I hadn’t visited since their renovation. The museum reopened in October 2019 with a new collection space, but the world shut down soon after due to the pandemic. The museum is currently open until 7 pm on Saturday and 5:30 pm the rest of the week. We arrived about an hour and a half before our 6 pm dinner. This gave us time to see the Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition and much of the 5th floor. There’s a connecting hallway between the Modern and the MoMA on the first floor.

Visiting New York?

Attractions within walking distance include Rockefeller Center/Top of the Rock, The American Girl Place, Radio City, The Plaza Hotel, and Central Park. Times Square is about a 12-minute walk south.

Here’s a few things to consider packing for your trip:

  • Paper MTA map – Yes, Google Maps is great. But it’s not reliable underground. Either take a picture of the subway map and keep it handy on your phone, or get a cheap paper map.

  • Portable charger – My phone always runs out of juice when I travel. Here’s the portal charger I use for my iPhone (cables included).

  • Comfortable shoes – And don’t wear flip flops. There is a high probability someone will unknowingly step on the back of your sandal, break it, and leave you shoeless in Times Square.

  • Outlet converter – If you’re traveling from another country, don’t forget to get a travel adaptor. You can find a “universal” one for about $25—I’ve been using this outlet converter for about 10 years.

  • Layers – New York can occasionally get all four seasons in one day. Be sure to pack accordingly, and consider water-resistant shoes if lots of rain is in the forecast.  

“The main facts in human life are five: birth, food, sleep, love, and death.”
— E.M. Forster

3-Day Itinerary for Paris: A First Timer's Guide to the City of Lights

I can’t believe it took me so long to visit Paris! As a teen, I was deeply obsessed with the French-centric movie, Moulin Rouge. I even named my hefty pug, Satine, after the main character. But with a multi-year pandemic, the need for a budget, and the birth of my first child, our original Paris plans were much delayed.

In December 2023, those baguette and cheese-filled dreams finally became a reality. My husband and I planned a three-night stay in Paris. Our goal as first timer’s in the city? See some of the hits, check out a few museums, eat like a local, and enjoy at least one fancy meal.

Brief Overview

  • Friday: Fly out of U.S.

  • Saturday (Day 1): Land at 8 am: Le Marais

  • Sunday (Day 2): Montmartre, Catacombs of Paris, Eiffel Tower, eat cheap

  • Monday (Day 3): Louvre, Notre Dame, wandering, fancy meal

  • Tuesday: Fly out at noon

What to Pack for Paris

  • Prepay for a digital eSIM so you can use your phone in Paris and not have to manually switch out the SIM card. We bought the 8GP Orange eSIM for our 10-day trip. I used my internet pretty frequently for maps and social media (not much streaming). I had about 1 GB leftover—it was a perfect fit for me!

  • Don’t forget the usual suspects, like an outlet converter, a small umbrella, and a sleep mask for the plane.

  • I purchased this sleeping contraption for the long redeye flight to replace my inflatable neck pillow. It definitely helped keep my head from rolling all over the place, and it was easy to fold up. Still, sleeping on a plane is very difficult for me!

  • See my full European packing list for more.

Hour-By-Hour Paris Itinerary

Here’s my copy-and-pasted itinerary for Paris, down to the hour. I’m very aware not everyone travels in such a structured way—but I’ve got limited time abroad and thus, must organize! I’ve also included notes with feedback, changes to our plans, etc. All reservations listed below were made before we left the United States. For popular attractions like the Eiffel Tower and the Catacombs of Paris, consider booking at least a month in advance.

Saturday (Day One)

  • 8:00 am: Land in Paris

  • 10:00 am: Drop off luggage at Paris France Hotel

  • 10:30 am: Walk around Le Marais 

  • 1:00 pm: Lunch - Breizh Café for Crepes - Reservation made.  

  • 3:00 pm: Orsay tickets 3:00pm Timed entry - Reservation made.

  • 6 pm: Head back to the hotel, check in if we have not, change clothes. 

  • 7pm: Dinner - Le Colimaçon - Reservation made.

Notes: Merde! Somewhere between checking in the hotel and lunch, I started to feel more than jet lag. By the time my food arrived at Breizh Café, I could hardly touch the delectable “La Tradition” galette (Ryan finished his crepe and my meal because it’s just that good). I don’t exactly know what happened—but I was either passed out or in the bathroom from 2 pm - 7 pm. We missed the Orsay and Le Colimaçon.

Happily, I turned a corner that evening and we made our way to Chez Janou for an incredible first dinner in Paris. Ryan’s aunt had recommended it to us, and I’m so glad it was our accidental destination. We huddled under cozy blankets in an inclosed outdoor seating area with mussels, pastis sippers, and an endless chocolate dessert. The waiter gave us a free shot at the end of the meal. He chatted with us about living in Paris and asked about life in New York. Then we walked the quiet, quintessential streets of Le Marais. It was such a lovely way to start out trip.

SUNDAY (Day two)

  • 9:30 am: Out the door—cab to Montmartre (+-30min)

  • 10:00 am: Morning in Montmartre 

  • 1:40 pm: Head to Catacombs (takes about 40 min either by train or cab from Monmartre)

  • 2:30 pm: Catacombs timed entry. Reservation made.

  • 3:45 pm: Head toward Eiffel Tower (Trocadero Metro stop for view) 

    • 4:15 pm: Arrive at the Trocadero Garden view area

    • 5:15 pm: Arrive at Eiffel Tower Esplanade, get in security line. Reservation made.

    • 5:30 pm: Eiffel Tower Timed Entry Elevator to the top.

  • 6:45 pm: Head to dinner

  • 7:15 pm: Dinner: L’As du Fallafel (often a line, no reservations)

  • 8:30 pm Little Red Door (often a line, no reservations)

Montmartre

Two-sentence history: Montmartre was a rural, independent village dotted with mills (moulins) that sat atop a hill just outside of Paris until 1860, when it became the eighteenth district (arrondissement). By the end of the 19th Century, the neighborhood was filled with brothels, cabarets, and artist studios, some of which included Monet, Renoir, Degas, Toulouse-Lautrec, Suzanne Valadon, Picasso, van Gogh, and others.

Notes: There’s not much I would change about this magical morning. I highly recommend the small Musée de Montmartre if you want to learn the history of the neighborhood and walk the gardens where Renoir once painted. There was a special exhibition while we were visiting, dedicated to Fernande Olivier, one of Picasso’s first serious partners—it was fascinating to read through her diaries.

The Place du Tertre and the narrow streets at the center of Montmartre were packed when we visited; it was the only place on our trip to France where we ran into real crowds. We ended up avoiding lines and eating lunch at a hole-in-the-wall, cash-only crêperie. There were park benches outside of the restaurant. We sat and watched locals buy baguettes, tourists look at maps, and shopkeepers greet each other on the street.

Catacombs of Paris

Two-sentence history: In the 1770s, the limestone mines on the outskirts of the city were beginning to cave in, which led King Louis XVI to name a commission to investigate the Parisian underground. Around the same time, overflowing cemeteries filled the city—between these two needs, the idea of the catacombs was formed.

Notes: I really enjoyed this attraction and the history tidbits from the audioguide but if you get claustrophobic, this one is not for you. The beginning of the tour winds you through small passageways of stone—even I was a little on edge. Toward the middle of your journey, the space opens up a bit more, and there are areas for you to pause and wander. Be sure to read this page before booking your tickets, and remember that you can’t take large items underground.

Eiffel Tower

Two-sentence history: This staple of the Parisian skyline is a wrought-iron lattice structure that was constructed from 1887 to 1889 to be centerpiece of the 1889 World's Fair. It’s one of the most visited monuments in the world, and can seen by some five to six million visitors each year.

Notes: This was our least favorite part of the day. In some ways, I’m glad I’ve been up the Eiffel Tower—but it just wasn’t that enjoyable! We’d bought tickets to visit the very top. It was a cold December night, so we couldn’t see much of the city and we were freezing—which is, of course, not the Eiffel Tower’s fault. But the worst part of the experience were the incredibly disjointed lines. There was a line and security station to enter the grounds, which was fine enough. There was another line and security check to take the elevator to the first landing. Then, there was a wait for the elevator in a big room with no formal queue, a scramble to join another line to get onto a second elevator to the top—and once at the very top, you were greeted by the angry line to get back down. The top of the tower was smashed with people (and the champagne bar was closed!), so I think we stayed up there for about 15 minutes before joining the angry line down. There was no signage, so people were cutting the line—which led to me basically playing a game of whack-a-bad-tourist with my elbows for 20 minutes. The second elevator to the ground level had a 30-45 minute wait—so we walked the rest of the way down in freezing wind.

All that to say, if I could do things differently, I’d likely go during the day and perhaps only to the first or second level. Or, to save money, I’d would re-do my favorite part of our Eiffel Tower experience: See it from the Trocadero Metro stop, take pictures while walking toward it, and—if the weather were nice—stopping for some food and wine in front of the impressive structure.

Dinner and Drinks

Notes: L’As du Fallafel is a causal, kosher Middle Eastern restaurant located in Le Marais that came highly recommended to us by a handful of people. There’s usually a line, but it wasn’t too long when we arrived around 7 pm on a Sunday evening. There were two queues: one for pick up and one for indoor dining. I had to guess to figure out which I was in (that night, it was the line on the right). We waited maybe 10 minutes—not bad at all. The food was delicious and came quickly. We watched the World Cup, drink a beer, and enjoyed crispy falafel pita sandwiches and fries.

The Little Red Door was our final destination of the day. Because dinner was so quick, we arrived slightly earlier than expected—which was great for beating the line. A bouncer let us through after a two-minute wait. The place was packed, but two spots had just opened up at the bar. We were greeted by a very friendly mixologist who, throughout the evening, was excited to tell us about each cocktail’s story and ask us our opinions. We both sampled three different drinks, trying to devour as much of the intriguing cocktail list as possible. From their Flourish menu, which debuted in 2022, we haven’t stopped thinking about the Olive (Little Red Door olive spirit, Baldoria Vermouth Dry Umami, nettle soda) and the Walnut (Little Red Door green walnut wine, Sab's Marc de Bourgogne). And because they mix so many ingredients in-house, the only way to recreate these cocktails is visit the Little Red Door again.

Monday (Day Three)

The Louvre Museum

Two-Sentence History: The Louvre Palace was originally built in the late 12th to 13th century under Philip II and was used as a fortress until 1546 when Francis I converted it into the primary residence of the French Kings. It was left to showcase the royal collection and other art when Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles for his household—but eventually, during the French Revolution, it was declared that the Louvre should be used as a museum to display France’s masterpieces.

Notes: To beat the rush, we arrived at the Louvre right after it opened and skipped the main entrance with the pyramids. Instead we took the metro to Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre, and used the underground Carrousel du Louvre entry. We waited for less than 15 minutes. (This was my husband’s research, and it saved us a significant amount of time.) There weren’t huge crowds of people at the museum the first hour of our visit, so we quickly found our way to the Mona Lisa and beat the long queue to snap a picture with this petite picture. We were also the only visitors touring Napoleon’s apartments—it was very surreal to stand alone in his cavernous, gilded chambers. This was my favorite part of our museum visit.

However, not all of our ideas were good ones: We’d planned to listen to the Rick Steve’s audioguide, as we’ve done many times before when traveling, while we walked the Louvre. But we couldn’t find where the tour began—it was an obscure room that even the guides had difficulty locating. Then, some of the art featured in Rick’s highlights tour had been moved, making the tour feel out-of-date and making us feel very confused (“This wall? No that wall! No actually… the next room.”) Still, his tours are free on Apple Podcasts, and they do an excellent job of explaining the context behind some of the world’s most well-known pieces of art. If you’re visiting Rome, don’t sleep on his 45-minute Sistine Chapel explainer.

The Louvre was both enjoyable and exhausting. We walked around, a bit haphazardly, from 9 am to 1 pm, and didn’t even scratch the surface of this gigantic collection. We’ll definitely visit again, and do a little more research into other must-sees. I’d already know I’d like to go back to the French Romanticism and Neoclassicism section (Rooms 75 to 77). We also totally missed the Egyptian wing as well as some Rembrandt and Vermeer masterpieces. But, alas, I got hungry.

Walking along the left bank

After the Louvre, we didn’t have specific plans until diner. So we wandered the Left Bank and popped into Cafe Latin for lunch—a very acceptable, albeit random pick with a nice steak tartare and house wine. We walked by the Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore, but there was a very long line to enter and I didn’t want to stop exploring the streets on a sunny day. Notre Dame Cathedral was the next stop. It was sad to see the destruction from the fire, but it was still an incredible structure to behold. I briefly started singing “Out There” to Ryan, but apparently he wasn’t a Hunchback super fan.

We likely could have fit another Museum into our schedule between lunch and dinner, but it was a Monday so many were closed—and we weren’t sure how tired we’d be after the Louvre extravaganza. I ended up walking intro grocery stores and pharmacies in Le Marais (always interesting) while Ryan took a nap.

Guy savoy

My birthday gift was a fancy meal in France, and Guy Savoy (pronounced Ghee Sav-wah) was such a delight. The restaurant is situated on the Left Bank with a view of the Seine and separated into six different salons. We dined in the Vert Galant dining room. Its description reads, “Because that old charmer King Henry prancing on the Pont Neuf remains in the hearts of all those who love life,” perhaps in reference to an equestrian statue of the king on the bridge, right outside of the restaurant. We opted not to do the tasting menu to be (slightly) financially savvy. Instead we each selected an appetizer, a main entree, and dessert.

Here, my friends, is where I ate the best bread in Paris. I have not been able to forget the artichoke truffle soup and truffled mushroom brioche served with truffle butter. Every aspect of this dish was incredible—but the bread? While devouring the fluffy, buttery, earth-enhanced layers, I made a noise that likely embarrassed Ryan. The waiter asked if I’d like another one, and I almost cried with joy, greedily accepting my golden, glutenous treasure. The scene repeated itself; the waiter came back with another basket of brioches and asked if I’d like a third. “Cruel man!” I screamed, tears streaming from my eyes. “Do not tempt me any further! I will fill up on your bounty and be unable to imbibe in the rest of this fancy fare!” OK—that last part didn’t happen… Instead, I gave him my most mournful eyes and said it was wise I resist.

Other highlights included the white burgundy we shared with our meal, the dry ice-cooked salmon made table side, and the Guinea fowl cooked three different ways. It was the perfect last supper in Paris.

“I had forgotten how gently time passes in Paris. As lively as the city is, there’s a stillness to it, a peace that lures you in. In Paris, with a glass of wine in your hand, you can just be.”
— Kristin Hannah, "The Nightingale"

The Ultimate Packing List for Traveling with Baby

Ah, to travel with Baby. Blowouts, shakes to the routine, and potentially disastrous missed naps might discourage you. But for us, traveling means seeing family, taking a step back from work, and showing Christopher a new piece of our fascinating world.

I’m mainly publishing this packing list for baby travel so I can continue to reference it. I’ve drafted a thousand incomplete lists on my phone, in emails to my husband, in texts to my mother—and on! The madness must end.

Bonus: Before becoming a new mom, I crowdsourced my friends’ favorite products for city living and travel. At the bottom of this post is a list of the most important items we’ve used over the past year to get Christopher from point A to point B.

A few reminders for flying with baby:

These are guidelines based on my experience. Always check your airliner’s specific family policies.

  • For domestic flights in the U.S., a child can typically sit on your lap for free until they are two years old. You need to specify when buying a ticket that you will have a child on your lap.  

  • For most domestic flights, you can check your stroller and car seat at the gate for free. They don’t count toward your luggage allowance.

  • For carry-on bags, most airlines will allow you to bring a diaper bag PLUS the airline’s regular carry-on allowance. At the time of publishing, the only airliner I know of that doesn’t allow this is Alaska Air.

  • Typically, infants flying on paid tickets get the same baggage allowance as adults, but if your child is on your lap, they don’t receive a luggage allowance.

  • Nursing or feeding during take-off and landing helped us distract Christopher and minimized ear popping. Even if it isn’t “feeding time,” a few ounces can go a long way. Also, I learned the hard way (rerouted in air!) that most flights don’t have anything besides coffee creamer on the plane, so always have extra milk.

  • Here are the TSA’s guidelines on traveling with breast milk and formula.

Packing Checklist for Baby (2 - 12 months):

In Diaper Bag

  • At least 2 day’s worth of diapers, in case of delays

  • Wipes

  • Foldable changing pad

  • Dog waste bags/plastic bags for dirty diapers

  • Light blanket

  • Spit up cloth

  • Bib

  • Extra outfit

  • Light jacket

  • 2 bottles, prefilled with water (after going through security, if flying)—or milk

  • Travel-size dish soap

  • Pacifiers, if your baby uses them

  • Snacks, if your baby is eating solid food

  • Favorite toys: Sophie, crinkle books, Captain Calamari, teething rings

  • Antibacterial wipes

  • Baby Tylenol

  • Copy of birth certificate

  • Passport, if needed

  • Optional: Your cell phone, charger, wallet, ID, insurance card, and necessary documents

  • Optional: Your breast pump, charger, and milk bags

  • Optional: Extra outfit for parent (I’ve needed this)

In Suitecase

Sleeping:

Clothing:

  • Two outfits per day (if no laundry) + maybe one more!

  • Socks

  • Swimsuit

  • Coat

  • Sun hat or winter cap

Toiletries

  • More diapers

  • More wipes

  • Butt cream

  • Nail file

  • Boogie Wipes

  • Sunscreen

  • Brush

  • Baby shampoo

  • Gas drops

  • Lotion

  • Snot sucker

Feeding:

  • Two additional bottles in suitcase

  • Additional formula in suitcase

  • Additional spit-up cloths

  • Optional: Bottle brush

  • Optional: Ice packs/cooler for milk

Equipment:

Baby traveling to Central Park, laying on a foldable changing map and waterproof blanket

Here’s Christopher in Central Park with his foldable diaper mat. The larger, waterproof blanket underneath him is from Little Unicorn. While I don’t travel with it on a plane, I would recommend it for picnics in the park and day trips to outside attractions.

Packing Checklist for Babies (6 - 18 Months)

All of the above (minus the gas drops, BabyBjörn, and pacifiers in our case), plus:

  • Squeeze pouches of food

  • Mum-Mum crackers

  • Baby toothbrush / tooth paste

  • At least two pairs of shoes

  • Easy-to-clean bibs

  • Sippy cups

  • Baby fork and/or spoon

  • Pull-ups or potty seat, if training

  • Outlet plugs / baby-proofing needs

  • Swim diapers / personal flotation device for beach trips

My Top 5 Favorite Baby Travel Products:

Guava Lotus Pack-N-Play
It’s easy to unfold, can fit in checked luggage, and can be carried with a handle or worn as a backpack. My sister recommended this to me as one of her favorite products, and now I pass on our sacred Fitzgerald knowledge to you. And yes, sometimes we use the Lotus as a make-shift (cozy) baby jail.

SlumberPod Blackout Tent
This tent is a lifesaver! It fits perfectly around our pack-n-play/playard. It’s particularly helpful in providing a dark environment for your baby when you’re in a hotel room—you can watch TV (quietly) or have on a light without waking your kiddo. There’s also strategically-placed pouches for your monitor and fan. We typically stick the sound machine right beside the SlumberPod.

Hiccapop OmniBoost Travel Booster Seat
We take this seat with us everywhere. Lots of restaurants don’t have high chairs; the OmniBoost Travel seat unfolds and hooks to most normal dining chairs. It can also sit on the floor at your friend’s house, in the sand, and in the grass at a picnic. When Christopher was about 4 months old, he started sitting up on his own. Since that time, he’s probably eaten at least two meals a week in the OmniBoost. It’s one of my favorite, most-used purchases.

Willow Breast Pump
You can’t (legally) nurse in moving car—but you can pump! The Willow is a cordless, battery-powered pump that is designed for on-the-go parents. It’s an expensive purchase, but most insurance companies will give you half off for this product. (I got my discount through Aeroflow Breast Pumps.) The Willow saved my family so much time on roadtrips: Before I was pumping, we’d have to pull over at rest stops for about an hour every two to three hours. This quickly turned a five-hour-roadtrip in an eight hour adventure. But no longer!

I found it convenient to purchase both the plastic milk bags and the reusable milk containers. I used the reusable containers when I was pumping at work or home and the plastic bags when out of the house. To keep the milk cold, I put ice in a 26-ounce Yeti Rambler and stuffed the milk bags on top of the ice. Random places I pumped: museums, LaGuardia Airport, the beach, Marie’s Crisis Piano Bar, the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, and on.

BabyZen YoYo 2 Stroller
I really, really, really pushed back when my friends told me I needed two strollers. I’d already received the UppaBaby as an (incredibly generous) gift—how could I possibly need another one? Well, we live in Brooklyn, off a subway station with no elevator. I very quickly realized I could not carry my 20-pound kiddo up and down all the stairs in a 30-pound stroller. While the UppaBaby is still one of the most well-built and useful products we own, as we got more active around the 6-month mark, we found it didn’t always fit in a restaurant or the back of someone’s car. Enter, the YoYo. It folds up to fit in your closet or in the overhead bin of a plane. The aluminum stroller weighs only about 13 pounds, and it takes up much less real estate in small New York City spaces.

I hope this packing list helps with the chaos—and best of luck on your next adventure with Baby!

“Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”
— Anthony Bourdain

4-Day Road Trip Through Coastal Maine

No one told me about the wildflowers in Maine.

During a trip this past August, I was astonished by the vibrant colors this northern state wears in late-summer. She was dressed in a blanket of green ferns with accents of every hue, painted on a backdrop of blue skies. It was an unkempt, dazzling landscape to let my mind wander through as we drove by the harbor towns of New England, saltwater heavy in the air.

Below are the highlights of my family’s trip to Portland, Wiscasset, Boothbay, and Bar Harbor. Note: We are all seafood lovers, so there was a food-heavy angle to our itinerary. 

I hope your adventure “down the coast” is filled with as many tasty meals, crisp beers, and beautiful wildflowers as ours was!

Maine’s Portland Head Light in mid-August

Maine’s Portland Head Light in mid-August

Portland

What to Do:

Portland is the largest of the towns we visited. The Old Port area is the perfect place to stroll—its cobblestone streets and 19th-century brick buildings are quaint relics of a time past.  During the day, walk the rows of converted warehouses that hold small boutiques and knick knack shops. At night, enjoy the robust restaurant scene or grab a drink at a local brewery. There are also several sightseeing services offered from the wharfs along Commercial Street.  

If you have a car, drive the 20 minutes to the Portland Head Light on Cape Elizabeth (pictured above). Grab a lobster roll and a blueberry soda at the Bite Into Maine food truck near the parking lot—this was our favorite roll of the trip. Then walk up and down the coast and snap some photos of the iconic 80-foot light house. It’s been guarding Maine’s rocky cliffs from shipwrecks since 1791. 

While we didn’t have time to visit other attractions, the Portland Museum of Art and a restored Victorian mansion are both within walking distance of the Old Port area.

Restaurants: 

Central Provisions serves an eclectic mix of small plates with quality ingredients. We ordered 11 or 12 plates for four people, which was just the right amount of food. My family sampled dishes like bone marrow toast, bluefin tuna crudo, and suckling pig—my parents even tried their first foie gras (I was shocked and proud!). But the favorite dish of the meal was crunchy cod cheek tempura that melted in your mouth like butter.

Central Provisions doesn’t take reservations, so we put our name down at 6:30 pm and walked around Old Port for about an hour and a half. To kill time, we had an appetizer of oysters and cocktails at a restaurant down the block called Eventide—we stood at the bar to avoid the line. If you like dirty martinis, they make a mean one with olive brine, oyster brine, hot sauce, and gin (or vodka, if you must).

Duck Fat is right next door, and another staple in the Portland food scene. Known for their poutine, sandwiches, and milkshakes, this café makes for a good lunch option. I also sampled a tasty, local IPA here called Liquid Riot. We stopped by this establishment on our last day of the trip, right before heading to the airport.

I have no complaints about the three restaurants listed above; each of them is worth a visit. But Central Provisions made for a memorable evening and was dubbed a highlight of our trip.

Wiscasset

Wiscasset is a small town situated right off of Route 1, the main highway along the coast of Maine. Because we were doing a lengthy road trip to see multiple harbors, we wanted to be close to this road. So we found a two-bedroom cottage on Airbnb with porch views of the Sheepscot River. It was centrally located and perfect for our party of four.

While driving from Portland to Wiscasset on Day 2 of our journey, we stopped at Castle Tucker, a historic mansion open to visitors during the summer and early fall. I adore old houses and their history, so my interest was piqued throughout the whole experience—but I will warn you, the tour was quite long. I think our guide had us for about 1.5 hours. Get all of the details about Castle Tucker, here.

The actual town of Wiscasset has a few cute boutiques, an antique shop opened in the afternoons, and the famous Red’s Eats lobster stand (warning: the line can get very long). Castle Tucker is about a 4-minute drive from Wiscasset’s main drag.

If you head about 10 minutes north, you’ll find Shuck Station Raw Bar in Newcastle, Maine. We ordered 2 dozen oysters and found some favorite (briny) varieties. These included Mere Point, Johns River, and “Wild Dams”—or wild oysters not specifically from a farm. This converted gas station-turned-restaurant was a great casual lunch spot with more than just oysters on the menu; my dad got another lobster roll and some tasty fries. Throughout the summer, they also have live music on the weekends. Note: The Mere Points with a dab of lemon were my favorite oyster combination of the weekend—but I like ‘em salty!

Boothbay Harbor

I visited Boothbay in high school (which is now many moons ago) but I wanted to return and do something on the water. One of my dad’s collogues recommended the Cabbage Island Clambake, an experience where visitors can take a cruise to a family-owned island and enjoy a big lobster dinner on its shores. I quickly booked tickets.

Our night started with a slow sail through Boothbay, past lighthouses and little islands, while the captain told us a few fun facts about the harbor. We opted to stand outside on the boat’s deck to get a good view. Capacity is limited within this area of the ship, so be sure to quickly walk up to the top of the boat when you first step foot on board. Also even in mid-August, it’s a good idea to bring a light jacket.

When we arrived on the Moore family’s island, their 99-year-old matriarch Bennie Alice greeted us. Believe it or not, she still works in the gift shop! My mother loved talking to her—Bennie told Mom that the family boat was named after her because none of her children could decide on which wife to name it after. Ha!

We roamed around the grounds a bit, then settled into a corner table on the porch of the family’s house/restaurant. At the first bell, a bowl of fish chowder was brought to our table along with a few drinks we’d ordered. At the second bell, we all lined up to get our meals from a fire pit at the edge of the water. Each tray included two lobsters, a bowl of oysters, a potato, an onion, an egg, and corn on the cob. After our meal, blueberry cake and coffee were served.

maine-lobster-britney-fitzgerald

You can confidently assume we were very full and very happy with our “eat like a local” experience.

 If you’re interested in the Cabbage Island Clambake, be sure to book your reservations in advance—it sells out quickly! You’ll pick up your tickets day-of at Pier 6; only or check are accepted. The whole experience takes about four hours. Both the boat and the island have a cash bar. And if you don’t know how to crack a lobster, the staff will show you exactly how it’s done.  

Bar Harbor

After an evening of sipping wine on our cottage’s porch while watching the fog roll over the Sheepscot River, we woke up early and hopped in the car for a two-hour drive north. Our destination: Jordan Pond in Acadia National Park and the town of Bar Harbor.

The scenic route took us through small towns and fields full of wildflowers. As we neared Acadia, the landscape changed—rolling hills became steeper and jagged cliffs lined the coast.

We’d made reservations at Jordan Pond House, a restaurant that’s been serving popovers and tea near the base of Jordan Pond since the 1890s. The local lobster stew, blueberry mojito, and—of course—a popover topped with butter made for the perfect lunch before a short walk around part of Jordon Pond. The only downside to this establishment? The parking situation is pretty bleak. We had to circle a series of two parking lots with no cell service for about 30 minutes before magically finding a spot. Give yourself plenty of time to get situated if you are driving to this restaurant.

The view from Jordan Pond House in Acadia National Park

The view from Jordan Pond House in Acadia National Park

Next we drove about 20 minutes to the town of Bar Harbor. It was bigger than we thought it would be, with several rows of shops, pubs, and restaurants. I’d suggest walking down to the water and then cutting up the Shore Path for some beautiful views of the coastline—you can spot this path on Google Maps. There are also whale watching cruises and scenic boat tours available off West Street.  

Bar Harbor definitely caters to tourists—it’s packed with little inns and souvenir shops. There was even a cruise ship in the harbor when we arrived. But the town encompasses quintessential New England and we were glad we stopped by for the afternoon. 

A glimpse of Bar Harbor, Maine

A glimpse of Bar Harbor, Maine

On our drive back toward Wiscasset, we took a slightly different route through the quaint town of Camden to get to our dinner reservations. The little village was surrounded by Victorian mansions that had been converted into B&Bs, each of which were glowing with warm lights as we drove by at dusk. Next time we visit Maine, I’d like to add Camden to the list! 

Into Rockland we drove to eat at Primo, a restaurant situated on a working farm that prides itself on having a “full circle kitchen.” The dining area is in—you guessed it!—another converted Victorian mansion, complete with several intimate dining areas, a winding staircase, and two upstairs bars. 

Primo describes its story best: “What started out as one chef and two cooks in the kitchen, one greenhouse and one acre of vegetables has now become a full staff of 60 with 2 greenhouses, over 200 laying chickens, 150 broiler chickens, 5 ducks, 15 pigs and 3 acres of vegetables continuously rotating throughout the season.” Everything we sampled was fresh, and every piece of the animal was used in one dish or another. You don’t have to be daring—there’s pasta and fish on the menu—but we did sample some pig ear and pig brain! Guess what? Tastes like bacon. 

After a delicious last dinner in Maine, we drove the 40 minutes back to our cottage and took up our posts on the front porch. We watched as the nightly fog rolled through Wiscasset and fanned out over the river, like a blanket being spread over a sleepy village. 

Tips for your Maine adventure: 

  • We made a few reservations in advance, as Maine is much more populated during the summer season. The Cabbage Island Clambake, Jordan Pond House, and Primo Restaurant all require planning. 

  • Give yourself a little time to just pull over and explore small towns. We did this once, but we missed a cute flea market because of our schedule! 

  • Renting a car is basically mandatory. There’s not much public transportation.  

  • On our next trip, I’d love to visit a brewery, do a whale watching tour, and take a hike up Cadillac Mountain! But I’m happy with what we accomplished in three nights :)

  • I always travel with a quick-dry towel, Band-Aids, a travel guide, and a portable battery for my phone.

“Maine is a beautiful place that I paradoxically want to hoard to myself and share with everyone I meet.”
— John Hodgman

What to Pack for Vacation: 10 International Travel Essentials

At least once a year, I like to save up some money and take a week-long trip. Whether it’s vacationing in Rome with my family of seven, or sleeping in a tent on the beach with my high school best friend, it’s crucial to escape New York City for a few days and embrace another type of adventure.

Over the years, I’ve learned some personal hacks: For instance, I now know that I prefer the aisle seat on an airplane because I always have to pee (at least twice) and I get anxiety about waking people up and asking them to move for my small bladder. I know how to use my credit card to get a free trip to Europe via points. I know I should always bring a shower cap so that I don’t waste an hour each day doing my hair. And so on.

I’ve also learned what to pack for my optimal overseas experience—and I’d like to share my findings with you! Below is a general list of 10 travel essentials. Note: If you’re headed to Iceland or somewhere cold, here is a more specific packing guide.

Ryan and I on our Saint Lucia honeymoon in 2017.

Ryan and I on our Saint Lucia honeymoon in 2017.

Let’s start with what to pack for the plane.

1. Sleep Mask

This soft sleep mask is contoured, so you’re still able to blink with it on—I personally don’t like when my eyes feel plastered to my cheeks. It also has an adjustable, Velcro strap, meaning your head is never squeezed. Grab a three pack for less than $10 on Amazon. 

2. Noise Cancelling Headphones

Some might say that I’m… sensitive to noise. They are correct. For instance, I hate if the person next to me on the subway is chewing gum with their mouth open—or if my neighbor on a plane starts snoring. So for Christmas last year, my parents gifted me with some brilliant, Bose noise-canceling headphones.

These little pillows of softness have been life changing (it’s worth noting that I live in the lovely but LOUD New York City). Being able to turn off the world around me when I’m trying to sleep or get work done is important. Another perk: these wireless headphones don’t insert into the ear, so I can wear them for most of a Transatlantic flight without feeling sore.

If these headphones are out of your price range, be sure to bring some ear plugs! You never know what the plane situation is going to be like.

3. Other Plane Necessities

Before boarding, I always make sure I have the following in my backpack:

  • Passport

  • Headphones (see above)

  • Sleep mask (see above)

  • A few Advil + Tylenol PM

  • Mints + chap stick

  • Toiletries bag

  • Phone charger

  • Toothbrush + facial wipes

  • Wallet + phone

  • Pen (for handling Customs)

  • Inflatable neck pillow: Does anyone have a good recommendation for this? If so, please leave a comment below—I’m looking to upgrade! I prefer an inflatable one for space, but am open to options.

Hiking the Quiraing on the Isle of Skye, Scotland in 2016

Hiking the Quiraing on the Isle of Skye, Scotland in 2016

And here’s a list of trip essentials:

4. Portable Battery

My husband bought these two products, both of which I’ve used in different circumstances. The Anker PowerCore has two jacks, making it perfect for when you’re traveling with a companion. We use this frequently on family trips.

This Jackery Portable Charger is a lighter option and great for solo travel. I also just throw it in my purse for everyday usage when I’m bopping around NYC and might not have access to an outlet for a few hours. It’s probably my favorite little purchase of 2019.

5. Outlet Converter

If you’re traveling from the United States to Europe or another part of the world, don’t forget that you’ll need an outlet converter. This one is my preferred companion because it has several outlets, as well as a USB port. I’ve probably been using this same model for about five years.

6. Quick-Dry Towel

Even if you’re not camping, these microfiber towels can be helpful in multiple travel situations. Let’s take a trip down memory lane for some examples:

  1. I used one in Mykonos on the beach because the hotel charged per towel. This was the cheaper option.

  2. My friends and I packed these for a trip to Iceland because many of the hikes end with a hot spring. This towel was much easier to lug in a backpack than a regular one.

  3. I used it in Turkey when we ran out of towels at our Airbnb. And because it dries pretty quickly (much faster than a regular towel) my backpack didn’t smell like mold on the way home.

 You get the picture. Things happen, and sometimes you want your own towel. Here are the two that I’ve used for most of my journeys: one from Amazon and one from REI.

On our way to the Blue Hole on Malta’s island of Gozo in 2019.

On our way to the Blue Hole on Malta’s island of Gozo in 2019.

7. Guidebooks + Podcasts

They may seem outdated, but a book can come in handy when your wifi isn’t working in a foreign country. I always get a guidebook for every new place I visit—when planning a trip, it’s the second purchase I make, right after the plane tickets. My favorite series is by Lonely Planet: I love that many of the recommendations come from locals or travel writers who’ve really explored the area. I also trust most of the food recommendations. If you’re more of a pictures person, I think DK Eyewitness has great visual guides and maps in their city-specific books.

And I’m always down for anything Rick Steves says about museums and attractions. He also has an app and web downloads available with podcasts for specific venues, like the Pantheon or the Palace of Versailles. My family frequently used the podcasts in Italy—they give awesome tips for how to walk through a museum or historic venue. (We even bypassed a huge line by using a hidden door in the Sistine Chapel, thanks to Steves!)

8. Raincoat + Umbrella

Don’t forget these basics, especially when traveling in spring. I venture into drizzly weather with an Eddie Bauer waterproof jacket that can double as a wind breaker and is easy to stuff into a backpack. I have a heavy duty umbrella for New York weather, but use this Repel Windproof umbrella for travel. It takes up less room, and has a handy automatic open/close function.

9. DSLR Camera

I love my iPhone camera—it does a great job capturing regular life. But there’s nothing like the clarity of a DSLR camera, particularly when the lighting is difficult or when what you’re trying to capture is far away (think, skyline shots). I also like to print my photos when I get home, and that’s when you can really tell the difference between the technology.

I’m a Canon person, simply because my parents bought me my first one as a graduation gift. It’s been traveling the world with me for the last 10 years, and I’ve never experienced an issue with the camera or the lenses. Here’s the latest version of the Canon Rebel that I’ve been using—it’s the perfect purchase for a hobby photographer. I also upgraded and bought the 18 - 135mm lens for most of my travel photos (this lens option is also available in the first link so you can purchase the body of the camera and the lens together). It has a wide focal length range, and is a step up in quality from the 18 - 55mm starter lens. You won’t need to change out your lens with this guy when traveling; it does it all. The only other lens I’ve purchased over the years is a 50mm for portrait shots. (If you have children or puppies, this one will blow your mind.)

It’s worth noting that if you’ve never used a DSRL camera before, you should practice a bit before you next adventure. I remember watching a few YouTube videos to learn the basics back in 2010! But if I can do it, believe me, so can you.

10. Collapsible Water Bottle

This is my latest purchase. I hate carrying a water bottle around—it takes up too much room and it’s always the first thing I toss out of my luggage when I’m tight on space. But I also get tired of purchasing one-off plastic water bottles; it’s not good for the environment or my wallet. Enter, the collapsible, silicone water bottle. I’m excited to take this on my next vacation.

Bonus: Travel Fan

Ok, this is not essential for everyone—but it is for me. Remember how I said I was noise sensitive? I also have a hard time falling asleep without the sound of a fan, especially if I’m sharing a room with snorers. This travel fan doesn’t make too much sound; just enough for me to black out. I will say that I have to leave the cord plugged into a USB outlet all night because the battery dies quickly. However, the lack of space the fan takes up in my suitcase was more important to me than the strength of the battery.  

Thanks for reading! I hope you found these tips to be helpful. For more travel essentials, check out my list on Amazon.

My family visiting Florence, Italy in 2018.

My family visiting Florence, Italy in 2018.

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.”
— Gustave Flaubert

Disclosure: some links in this article are affiliate links. This means, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission from a purchase you make. All products listed above have been bought and tested by me :)

9-Day Italy Trip—Part 3: Cinque Terre

Welcome to Part 3 of our digital journey through Italy! This post will focus on our one-night stay in Cinque Terre. If you’re planning your own trip, be sure to check out my family’s Venice itinerary, Duomo experience, and Florence tips. A guide for Tuscany and Rome will be published soon.  

CINQUE TERRE

This picturesque portion of Italy is comprised of five villages on the Italian Riviera: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Paths connect these villages, and one of the prime attractions of this region is hiking between the quaint and colorful towns. While once an isolated area that was difficult to access via most forms of transportation, trains now connect the villages to each other and to more central locations. Cinque Terre, which literally means “Five Lands,” didn’t become a popular tourism spot until the 1970s and has since been dubbed a UNESCO World Heritage Site and national park.

The village of Vernazza.

The village of Vernazza.

WHERE TO STAY

My family opted to hop a train from Florence to the largest of these villages, Monterosso al Mare, where we spent one night at La Cabana Hotel before heading to Rome. The quaint, family-run inn has gorgeous views of the Mediterranean, and the room price includes a sizable breakfast. My husband and I splurged on one of the “Junior Suites,” which included a terrace and hot tub. We liked the idea of having a place where the family could relax together. Monterosso also doesn’t have the same night life scene as some of the larger cities we were visiting, so the hot tub provided us a fun evening activity.

The hotel is situated above the main town and is about a five-minute drive from the train station. Free shuttle service to and from La Cabana are available via the front desk. You should coordinate with the staff before arrival to ensure a smooth check-in process—we had no issues scheduling an early morning car through the hotel. You’re also able to walk down to Monterosso’s main street thanks to a paved path through olive trees, but I wouldn’t recommend it with luggage. The walk takes approximately 10 minutes.

We really enjoyed our stay in Cinque Terre—it was a relaxing portion of our journey placed strategically between the busy days spent in Florence and Rome. While we loved our large and affordable Airbnbs, it was also enjoyable to have a somewhat luxurious night in a proper hotel—we didn’t have to take the trash out or strip the sheets before leaving!  

THINGS TO DO

BOAT TOUR

There are ferries and boats galore in Cinque Terre, and if the weather holds, I’d highly recommend seeing the five towns from the water. The Fitzgerald family hired Captain Stefano for a three-hour private boat tour—and it was such a success!

Just three sisters, exploring Cinque Terre by boat!

Just three sisters, exploring Cinque Terre by boat!

After checking into our hotel, we picked up (delicious) pasta to-go and a bottle of wine for our tour. Stefano met us at the main port—his boats always leave from Monterosso, which was the main reason we opted to stay in this village. He doesn’t mind if you bring snacks and beverages on his vessel, though we double-checked with him via email to be polite. 

It was slightly too cold to swim in mid-May, but we managed to see all of Cinque Terre’s five towns, explore two of them by foot, and learn about the history of the area. (If you opt to walk around a few of the villages, just know Stefano stays with the boat while you’re out and about.) 

The view from the village of Manarola.

The view from the village of Manarola.

The cost of our excursion was €100.00 x hour x boat and had to be paid in cash. This was very reasonable when divided between my party of seven (the max for one boat). We left a 20% tip, meaning each of us paid about $50 for a memorable afternoon with a hilarious, Italian captain.  

Lastly, some of my best pictures from Italy were snapped on the boat! The pastel-painted villages change colors in the setting sun, and the Mediterranean makes for a beautiful backdrop. Stefano explained to us that he has taken thousands of photos of Cinque Terre, but it never feels like quite enough.    

HIKING

As mentioned above, the main attraction of Cinque Terre are the hikes between villages. Four of us opted to hike from the neighboring town of Vernazza back to Monterosso. (The other three were dropped off by our boat captain directly to the port of Monterosso.) The Blue Trail hike took us about 1 hour and 45 minutes, and was a little over 2 miles long.  

To enter the trail, look for signs to Monterosso and an ascending path along an alley above the church of Saint Margaret of Antioch. You’ll continue to climb up through olive trees and vineyards before the terrain levels out a third of the way through your journey. Be sure to turn around and snap a few shots of Vernazza before getting too deep into the forest!

The path can be somewhat uneven and a few spots are narrow. As your hike comes to an end and you begin to descend into town, you’ll see lemon trees and the roofs of Monterosso. 

Tips: Landslides shuttered some of the trails several years ago, and current weather can close certain paths. Be sure to check the status of your hike before taking off. This website and this website helped keep us up to date. I would also not suggest wearing flip-flops on the trail; I was very comfortable in these lightweight tennis shoes.   

LONGER HIKE

We didn’t have time to complete the longer hike between Vernazza and Monterosso before sunset (you do not want to be on these old paths at night). But there is another trail option that will take you past two sanctuaries toward the top of the park. This hike is supposed to be around 3 hours and 30 minutes.

CASTELLO DORIA

Looking for a historical spot to visit while in the town of Vernazza? Check out Castello Doria, the oldest surviving tower in Cinque Terre. It dates back to about the year 1000, and it offers up a beautiful 360-degree view of this Mediterranean village. The short but steep hike to Castello Doria will take you through winding paths of quaint, old houses. Once at the top, there is a 1.50 Euro entrance fee—be sure to have cash! Take the narrow staircase to the very top of the tower for one of the tallest views in town.   

OTHER THINGS TO DO:

  • Go to the beach in Monterosso—it’s the “beachiest” of the villages

  • Visit one of the nearby vineyards

  • Take a pesto-making class—this region is known for this sauce!

  • Go cliff jumping in Riomaggiore

  • Pick up regional goodies at Cantina du Sciacchetra in Monterosso

  • Check out views of Manarola while sipping wine at Nessun Dorma

  • Walk around the village cemeteries

Where to Eat

GASTRONOMIA SAN MARTINO

Don’t let the buffet-style counter and plastic dishes fool you—this place whipped up some of the creamiest pesto pasta I’ve ever eaten! There was no need for more toppings or salt; the regional pesto was perfection and the trofie pasta (a Northern Italy style-pasta that is twisted and made with a little potato) melted in my hungry mouth. We took our lunch to-go, and devoured it on our boat tour of Cinque Terre.  

DA ERALDO

After our hike back to Monterosso, we were famished and seeking another regional dish: seafood! So we went to Da Eraldo, and sat outside at a classic, Italian red and white checkered cloth table. We munched on cheese appetizers, sipped white wine, and ordered incredible seafood pasta dishes filled with prawns, squid, mussels, and salty garlic sauce. I also sampled Cinque Terre’s famous sardines, served with hunks of butter, slices of bread, prosciutto, pesto, and olive oil. This was one of our favorite meals of the trip.  

TIPS:

  • The weather is always changing here. In May, we wore jeans, short sleeves, and rain jackets.

  • As mentioned above, be sure to check which trails are open before starting your hiking journey.

  • Sometimes, when the trails are “closed” it really means the checkpoint isn’t open. Tourist information centers in the towns will have more information.

  • If you plan on hiking multiple trails and using public transportation, look into purchasing the Cinque Terre Card. It was unnecessary for us because we took a boat tour, but it could be useful if that’s not in your budget.

  • I love all of Rick Steves’ guide books—this pocket-sized one is for all of Cinque Terre.

And here’s a few more photos from our trip!

“Who that has ever visited the borders of this classic sea, has not felt at the first sight of its waters a glow of reverent rapture akin to devotion, and an instinctive sensation of thanksgiving at being permitted to stand before these hallowed waves?”
— Edward Forbes, The Natural History of the European Seas

9-Day Italy Trip—Part 2: Florence

Welcome to Part 2 of our digital trip through Italy! This post will focus on Florence—if you’re planning your own trip, be sure to check out my family’s Venice itinerary and Duomo experience. Guides to Tuscany, Cinque Terre, and Rome will be published soon.

FLORENCE

I wasn’t sure what I’d think about Rome or Venice, but I knew I’d love Florence before even leaving Brooklyn. A town that birthed the Renaissance and is surrounded by the green hills of Tuscany is all too easy to adore.

A view of Florence, Italy from Piazza Michelangelo

A view of Florence, Italy from Piazza Michelangelo

WHERE TO STAY 

“Should I look up a Marriott in Florence?” my dad asked from the couch of our Venice apartment. The whole family wore matching expressions of exhaustion and frustration.  

About two minutes prior, Mom had checked her email for the first time since landing in Italy. It was the end of an eventful day, and we were taking a few minutes to plan the next afternoon’s key swap with the Airbnb host in Florence.

But instead of details about how to access the apartment, the host had sent us a long message. The first sentence started with an apology, and then something along the lines of “the apartment you were going to stay in has flooded.” Mom and I both gasped out loud.

Luckily, after some frantic Whatsapp messages, we were able to contact the host—he had another apartment for us that would work. My sister Grace would no longer get her own room; instead, she’d have to board with me and my husband. But it was certainly a better option than spending hours looking for an affordable hotel in a foreign city.

I’d give our Airbnb mixed reviews: the owner was able to resolve the situation, however, he wasn’t very friendly or helpful. The apartment, located in Piazza dei Ciompi, suited our needs and had a fabulous garden where we drink wine every evening. My husband didn’t enjoy the mattress on our bed, but the AC worked well and the natural sunlight in the back two rooms made for a lovely wake up call. 

And if you’re traveling with a smaller group, this Airbnb was highly recommended to me. It didn’t work for our numbers—but the view looked incredible. 

THINGS TO DO

STATUE OF DAVID
Seeing David in person is vastly different that looking at a picture of Michelangelo’s marble masterpiece. Don’t like museums? This one has about three rooms—you can handle it. Don’t understand the importance? Download Rick Steves' podcast and listen while you walk around the gallery. It’s like having a free, personal tour!

Tips: Purchase tickets ahead of time to skip the line. Use this link for the official ticket website. Allow at least 45 minutes to an hour at this museum. Note that it’s closed on Mondays.

The Statue of David in the Galleria dell'Accademia

The Statue of David in the Galleria dell'Accademia

DUOMO
The cathedral, the baptistry, and the climb to the top of this building’s iconic dome were memorable moments of our Florence experience. We ran out of time—but there’s even more to see, including a bell tower and an ancient crypt. For more on our Duomo climbing experience, check out this blog post.

Tips: Buy tickets ahead of time to skip some lines. We purchased the 18 Euro passes for access to all the monuments for 72 hours. A separate (free) reservation must be made if you’d like to climb up the dome.

The Duomo's ornate cathedral.

The Duomo's ornate cathedral.

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO
This was one of my favorite adventures in Florence. After lunch and a little rainstorm, we walked from the Uffizi Gallery over the Ponte Vecchio Bridge and through the quaint neighborhood of San Niccolò. Our destination was Piazzale Michelangelo, a hill that offers stunning views of Florence.

Tips: If you are visiting in spring, don’t go straight to the top! We stopped at a rose garden on the way up to the lookout point. It was nearly deserted and offered beautiful vistas. Once you’ve snapped a few photos, continue your journey to the peak of the hill. Grab a beer, take more pictures, go to the bathroom (for a Euro), and enjoy Florence’s Duomo-dominated skyline.

Piazzale Michelangelo's rose garden.

Piazzale Michelangelo's rose garden.

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI
My husband, my brother-in-law, and I stopped into this Renaissance palace that was once owned by the infamous Medici banking family. Built in the mid-1400s, this stone structure holds a wealth of frescoes, tapestries, Venetian chandeliers, and government history—including artifacts, like a bed that Neapolitan slept in! One of its rooms is still used today by state agencies.

Tips: It’s worth mentioning that this is one of the only museums open on a Monday in Florence. We arrived around 4pm and experienced no line. Tickets cost 7 Euro.

One of the (casual) parlors at the Medici Palace

One of the (casual) parlors at the Medici Palace

MERCATO CENTRALE
Stop by this large market and food hall to sample everything from buffalo mozzarella to wine. This is one of those places to go if everyone in your group wants to eat something different and you’re all traveling on a range of budgets. Full disclosure: We walked around and did some shopping, but didn’t eat much here as it was around dinnertime, and we had made reservations at La Giostra!

Truffles at the Mercato Centrale

Truffles at the Mercato Centrale

PASTA CLASS
While some of us were exploring the Medici palace and the Duomo’s baptistry, my mother and sisters opted to take a pasta making class. They learned how to roll several different types of pasta with a small group of people during a three-hour session. If you’re looking for a deeper dive into Italian food, three of my friends who traveled to Florence in 2017 also highly recommend this course.

OTHER THINGS TO DO:

  • Uffizi Gallery – It’s one of my big regrets that we couldn’t fit this in—but our free day in Florence was on a Monday, when the famous Uffizi is closed!

  • Boboli Gardens

  • Bargello

  • Museo dell'Opera del Duomo

  • Giardino Bardini

  • Forte di Belvedere

  • Santa Croce

  • Palazzo Vecchio

  • Vasari Corridor

WHERE TO EAT

TRATTORIA ZAZA
This restaurant was a pure delight. We made reservations several weeks in advance, and my husband told the staff we were celebrating a special event (Mother’s Day in Europe!). We were lucky enough to be escorted to a private dining room, complete with antique furniture, a large wooden table, and candle-lit walls.

Of the restaurants in Italy that we visited, this was one of the only places that served me a truly excellent cocktail. The Negroni was spot on, and the 10 Euro jug of house wine for the table was an excellent follow up. Food highlights included the gorgonzola and truffle gnocchi, the famous Florentine T-bone steak that I split with my husband, and the seafood risotto that my sister wouldn't share. 

GUSTA PIZZA
Unsure when we’d get home from a full-day tour in Tuscany, we decided to order in food one night. Family-run Gusta Pizza had been recommended to us by a slew of people—and it didn’t disappoint. We each ordered our own pizza (they’re slightly larger than a personal pizza in the USA) and chowed down on crispy dough loaded with fresh basil, mozzarella, and olive oil. Gusta uses a wood fire stove, which makes each pie slightly different. I remember telling my sister that I “wasn’t very hungry,” and then promptly devoured my whole pizza and all of her leftovers. 

Tip: Don’t want to wait in line? Order from your hotel or Airbnb with this website. 

ALL'ANTICO VINAIO
This no-frills sandwich shop is famous for its fresh ingredients and sizable portions. It’s a tasty lunch option that usually has a line—but it moves quickly, and if you visit after 1:30 pm you’ll have missed most of the rush. There are no tables and chairs, so we sat underneath the nearby Uffizi Gallery’s awning. Tip: The Dante sandwich’s truffle cream is fantastic!

All'Antico Vinaio's Dante sandwich.

All'Antico Vinaio's Dante sandwich.

LA GIOSTRA
My husband’s cousin recommended this spot to us, so we made reservations two weeks before our trip. The review? Dad claims his seafood pasta at La Giostra was probably his favorite dish in Italy! Our meal began with a glass of Champagne and a sampling of appetizers, on the house. We then ordered the famous pear ravioli, a creamy plate of burrata, and several other tasty dishes, followed by the tiramisu. Sips of limoncello were served with our check. This experience was one of our pricier meals—but the service, samples, and Tuscan-inspired food made it well worth the extra Euros.

One of the tasty pear and gorganzolla dishes at La Giostra.

One of the tasty pear and gorganzolla dishes at La Giostra.

TIPS:

  • Download Rick Steves' podcasts for the museums that you’re interested in visiting—you’ll have more context and can skip the audio guide fees. (We really enjoyed listening to his episode about the Statue of David!)

  • If you're moving around town all day, consider getting a portable battery for your phone. Traveling alone? Here's a great high-speed option for less than $20. If you're visiting as a couple or with a group, we enjoyed using this external battery pack—it has two charging ports!

  • The Firenze Card didn't work for us because we were only going to be in Florence proper for two days. But if you're visiting multiple museums, it may be a good option for you! The three-day pass lets you skip lines to many of the top tourists attractions—however, you'd have to go to quite a few museums for the card to pay for itself.

  • If you're near the Duomo and looking for a sweet treat, we loved the gelato at Edoardo. They had both basic flavors and bizarre ones—like toasted sesame!

  • Taking cabs? Unlike in NYC, you can't just stick your hand up in the air to hail a cab. Instead you should look for taxi stands. Some locations to find a cab are shown in the map below; use the button in the top left to see the full list.

“You will begin to wonder that human daring ever achieved anything so magnificent.”
— John Ruskin, "Mornings in Florence," 1875
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Climbing the Florence Duomo: Claustrophobia and Joy

“Mom, you’re doing great.”

She looked at me with a strained smile and latched her hands onto the walls around her. We were in a dark circular stairway, narrow enough for only one person to pass at a time.

My family was climbing the 463 steps of the Florence Duomo, an iconic pink and green cathedral in the city’s center. The old stone hallways surrounding us were constructed in the 1400s, and the prominent dome (pictured below) was designed by one of the “fathers of the Renaissance,” Filippo Brunelleschi. The tip-top of the dome was our destination.

The view of the Florence Duomo from Piazzale Michelangelo

The view of the Florence Duomo from Piazzale Michelangelo

Part one of our climb was relatively easy. Space was tight, but the line was moving quickly. I ran my fingers over smooth, worn stone and thought of the people who had walked through this building over the centuries. Which clergymen had access to these stairs? Could the public of Florence visit the top of the dome in the 1700s—or even in the 1970s?

My mother doesn’t like small spaces that have minimal exits; she likes a getaway plan, and I don’t blame her. This tiny passageway wasn’t ideal for her anxieties, but she pressed on. We all wanted to see 360-degree views of Florence from one of the tallest buildings in town.  

My sister Kathryn snapped this photo—do you see the fear in our faces yet?

My sister Kathryn snapped this photo—do you see the fear in our faces yet?

My family had now reached the second part of our climb: we walked through a door and onto a 3-foot wide ledge, lining the inside of the dome. The ledge sits 130+ feet in the air and has a plexiglass wall, giving visitors a chance to admire the cathedral below and a ceiling of frescoes depicting the Last Judgement, above. The paintings were so close, you could almost touch them.

However, I can’t say that I truly got a chance to study these works of art.

I wouldn’t consider myself terrified of heights—I stand on roofs, hike up hills, and love a good Empire State Building view. But something about that 3-foot ledge constructed in the 1400s made me squirm. Why had it not already broken away and fallen to the ground!?

As we walked onto the ledge, my mother said, “I thought the top would be more open than this,” in a nervous voice.

“We’re not at the top yet, Mom” I replied, trying not to look green. I swiveled my head around. Was anyone else in full panic mood? No, no… all seemed calm.  

And then I saw my sister, Grace.

“Keep moving, people!” she shouted to a crowd of tourists snapping photos of frescoes. She power walked, not glancing at the cathedral below or the works of art above. I giggled as she practically pushed the woman in front of her through the next door, away from the plexiglass ledge. I had a momentary flashback of her panic attack in Scotland when I’d made her climb a steep hill in the rain. Poor sister. Would she ever travel with me again?

The ledge, the plexiglass, the frescoes, and Ryan's head.

The ledge, the plexiglass, the frescoes, and Ryan's head.

Part three of the climb consisted of more circular stairs up, up, up to the top. But the line wasn’t moving very quickly, and suddenly the small stairway high in the sky seemed like a stone prison to at least half of our group. Dad’s knee was bothering him, Mom was closing her eyes, and my sisters were glancing worriedly at our parents. Even my husband and brother-in-law looked ill at ease.

The Fitzgeralds (in particular, Mom) get chatty when we’re nervous, so we began joking with the British tourists in front of us.

“Hear there’s a Starbucks at the top,” the Brit said, obviously trying to lighten the mood. I laughed and shifted my weight onto the other foot. How long had we been standing here? “I’ll get myself a Venti,” he said. “We all deserve Ventis!”

A few silent moments went by. 

“You’re wicked for making me do this,” the Brit’s wife said. We were still standing in the same spot of the narrow stairwell. He turned to me. “Now, look! Your family’s given my wife the anxiety.” We all laughed—and after what felt like 20 minutes but was probably 5—the line began to move once more.

The final phase of the climb consisted of steep, curved stairs with metal hand railings. There was a tour guide in front of us who shouted down to her group, “You are now scaling the inside of the dome,” to which my mother whispered, “No sh*t!” with a nervous laugh.

And then, right at the breaking point—when I truly didn’t know if my family or the British couple were going to make it—we crawled through a portal onto the roof of the iconic Duomo.

And what a sight we saw.

Terracotta roofs for miles

Terracotta roofs for miles

On the hill is Piazzale Michelangelo, a great place to get a view of Florence. See those stairs near the parking lot in the center? We grabbed a beer and sat there post-Duomo climb.

On the hill is Piazzale Michelangelo, a great place to get a view of Florence. See those stairs near the parking lot in the center? We grabbed a beer and sat there post-Duomo climb.

The Duomo's bell tower, officially called Giotto's Campanile—which you can also climb.

The Duomo's bell tower, officially called Giotto's Campanile—which you can also climb.

The rain held off as we explored every angle of Florence and marveled at this romantic city on the cusp of Tuscany's hills. Our journey up to the top was well worth the effort. A least... for me. You'd have to ask my parents their thoughts ;)

Tips for Climbing the Duomo:

  • You must reserve a ticket in advance to go to the top of the Duomo. We purchased 18 Euro 72-hour pass so we could come back and see the Baptistry, and booked a 10:30am time slot for the climb. Click here for tickets.

  • Consider your tolerance for tight spaces and heights. My mom made it, so you probably will too! But if you have an extreme phobia, this adventure may not be your cup of tea.

  • Do not wait in the ticket line when you arrive at the Duomo if you have already purchased passes online. The entrance for climbing the Dome is via the Porta della Mandorla (north side of the cathedral).

“To see the sun sink down, drowned on his pink and purple and golden floods, and overwhelm Florence with tides of color that make all the sharp lines dim and faint and turn the solid city to a city of dreams, is a sight to stir the coldest nature.”
— Mark Twain
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