The (Hidden) Paths of Santorini

Tip #1: The Greek Islands do not believe in signs.

I stared at the map again; then flipped to page 219 in my guidebook. “A magical way to reach the village [of Oia, Greece] is along a cliff edge walkway that rambles north from Firá… You’ll pass sage green slopes splattered with wild flowers, rich red- and coffee-colored earth and views of blue, blue sea.”

I looked up and down the dirt road, and plucked a sweaty piece of hair from my forehead. You can politely assume that I too looked “magical.”

“Alice, let’s ask this guy where the footpath is.” My travel buddy and I explained to the teenage boy what we were looking for, only to be told he’d never heard of it. We then walked toward the coast, confused, and began to follow a stone street through a quaint marketplace. Finally, we found two women who knew of this ever-elusive footpath. 

“You’re on it!” one of them said with a grin. “But it’s very far till Oia, and too hot.”

This was not the first time we’d been told that Mediterranean weather would destroy us. Every morning, Alice and I munched on Greek yogurt with sweetbread at our B&B in Perissa Beach. And every morning, the House Mamma would ask us our plans, then exclaim, “Where are your hats!?” It was my assumption she’d seen many pale-skinned guests turn into depressed lobsters.

“Thank you, we’ll be fine. We have water!” Alice and I said to our helpers. They wanted to know how much water, how much sunscreen, and how much time we had. This interrogation was only slightly concerning—but we passed their quiz and began our journey.

Tip 2: Always listen to Greek mothers.

“Going to DIE,” I said dramatically to Alice a few hours later. 

The views of Santorini and had been more than breathtaking. But after walking through a pristine resort town, full of infinity pools with sunbathers sipping cold cocktails, and then skirting the edge of a cliff, we’d arrived at a steep hill full of hot pumice rocks that burned through my shoes. 

Hot rocks on the long road to Oia. Don't wear sandals. 

I looked like a fool, hopping up the slopes of the coast like an ungraceful mountain goat, with a heavy camera attached to my neck. There were only two sips left in my water bottle, and yet we had hours till our final destination. To make matters more absurd, we'd lost the "magical" path again.

(Note: It was at this exact moment that I thought about those Israelites who wandered the desert for 40 years—how utterly terrible.)

“Tomorrow. Beach. Vacation,” I said through dry lips. I knew Alice would agree. The heat was truly incredible, killing off our conversation until we found a patch of shade under a lone tree.

Seven miles and four some hours post start time, we dragged our feet into a taverna on the cliffs of Oia. I ordered a beer while Alice sampled their honey-encrusted baklava. We didn’t talk much as our bodies unwound. 

Then that beautiful globe in the sky began to sink into a blanket of reds, pinks, and purples. The sun moved faster in Santorini—it appeared to be diving into the horizon. We watched from the roof of the taverna, completely transfixed. How could that be the same sun I admired back in New York City?

Tip 3: Cliffside hikes in Santorini are always worth it. But bring at least 2 bottles of water—and read Tip 2 again. 

[Editor's Note: This blog post is centered around a 2014 trip to Athens, Santorini, Mykonos, and Istanbul. I finally decided to blog about it a year later. Below are some photos and tips, in case you ever decide to visit!]

While in Santorini, Alice and I stayed at the Santa Barbara Hotel, about a block away from the black sand coast of Perissa Beach. Breakfast was included for about $35/night. 

One of the resorts in Fira we walked past. How we longed to jump into that pool... 

On the hike from Fira to Oia, you'll pass several pockets of resort towns, go over a few rock-filled hills, and occasionally lose the "path." Tip: Just follow the coast and keep going north.

Cliffs on the outskirts of Fira. 

The case for sunscreen. 

Santorini was formed by a volcano (not pictured), hence all the pumice rocks and multicolored beaches around the island. 

When you Google Santorini, the town of Oia is what comes up first. Note: The sunsets are world-famous, so pick your viewing spot out early. People start arriving about an hour before the sun sinks.

Alice's baklava, which I definitely sampled. 

#WorthIt

Those Jazzy Days of Summer

The Fashion Girls of 7th Avenue are always easy to spot. They’re skinny little things, with striking angles in strange places. Diet Coke in hand, they wisp down the street. But their faces are a little too sallow, and by the end of the day their chic messy buns often just look… messy. 

I don’t envy them, I thought while consuming Taco Bell from the passenger seat of a rented Tahoe. The Fashion Girl in my line of vision was perched on the sidewalk, struggling with an umbrella that refused to open. We drove on and I silently wished her all the best.

A mash-up of Phantogram and Vallis Alps played as we stuffed our faces with “tacos” and “burritos.” Three guys in the backseat laughed at something seemingly hilarious, while a sudden storm exploded in the night sky. The SUV barreled away from the city, the Poconos our distant destination. 

In my mind, there’s a jazzy song from the 1920s playing all summer long in New York. The cadence of crowds on-the-go fits the high notes of exploding trumpets; our feet always moving to a four-beat rhythm. But once away from the city's addictive pull, everything slows down... 

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The next morning I awoke to the smell of bacon rising from the kitchen of our borrowed lake house. My fan hummed as I changed into a bathing suit and shorts—why bother with clothes when it’s that warm? After brushing my teeth, I threw my makeup bag and sundresses into a suitcase, where they would sit for the rest of the weekend.

Ah, freedom. Lashes undone and my hair in a true messy bun, I chowed down on food in the Pennsylvania heat. (And I silently wondered if that Fashion Girl with the pesky umbrella liked being skinny as much as I liked bacon. #BreakfastThoughts) 

For the next three days, I didn’t change out of my swim clothes—that’s the beauty of vacation. Yes, there was a shower at some point. But not even an hour went by post-shampoo before I was back in the lake.

We lounged in giant inner tubes by day, collecting golden freckles or weird sunburns. At night we’d cook sizzling burgers and mash limes for homemade margaritas. If you’d peeked into our cottage, you’d have seen coral tee shirts, scuffed up flip-flops, and several gin drinks lying about. Oh… and also a piñata from Walmart.

It’s in these moments that I sense the comfort of summer.

That familiar feeling, charged with nostalgia and the unexpected, haunts me all year. In my admittedly bias opinion, summer is the most tangible of the seasons. It’s salty, sweaty, and the East Coast humidity seeps into your every pore. 

But something about warm weather makes us more agreeable to anything of the slightest interest. “Yes” to one more drink; “yes” to seeing the sunrise; “yes” to it all.

Coming back from vacation is always slightly depressing—but at least in July when you return to New York, she welcomes you with a warm, dewy hug. Then that jazzy song in my mind starts playing once again, and the city dances, dances, dances…

The Fashion Girls of 7th Ave. tango with the Finance Boys of Park. Manhattanites drum up their nerve, jiving to hotspots in Brooklyn. Wealthy Upper East Siders salsa off to the Hamptons…
And everyone left just keeps dancing.
As fast as they can.

The city dances, dances, dances—with a cocktail in its hand. 



As I Walk, We Spin

There’s a man at the 2nd Ave subway station who plays the blues on an old saxophone.

His notes are haunting as they bounce off white and blue tiles, echoing down empty train tunnels. Some of the high tones escape to the street above, but most of them remain trapped in their dark, dripping dungeon. He’s played the same music in the same spot for at least two years—but probably longer. 

“Medium coffee?”
“Yes, thanks,” I reply.

My barista of choice is working today. He knows exactly what I want, and leaves just the right amount of room for milk. We chat about the construction from the East Village explosion while I do my coffee choreography—splash, swirl, insert straw, sip. He says he’ll see me tomorrow; I tell him to enjoy the suddenly agreeable weather. 

New York smells earthy and fresh today, like a proper April. We don’t get a spring here like we did in Virginia—only two weeks of tulips, and then a steamy summer. But fluke days during this volatile season are, of course, welcome. 

I pass a homeless man outside of CVS, content to be silent in the sun. He usually hangs around the corner of 5th Street, waiting for spare change. His wheelchair is loaded with collected goodies, like the dingy version of Santa’s sleigh.

Then I see the dog walker with her parade of polite and well-groomed pets; there’s a Frenchie, some mutts, and usually one unidentifiable fluffy breed. It’s quite possible this woman’s salary is higher than mine.

As I walk, the city spins and spins. You can see people smiling at their phones, or crying to friends over watered-down mimosas. Beside me is a kid on a scooter, who will one day become a man with a motorcycle. In front of me is an older woman with tattoos and a cut up jean jacket, who could probably tell us salacious stories of an East Village past.  

The season is changing, and everything else morphs with it.
Time bleeds on, with or without our blessing.

But when life isn’t consistent, or perhaps when your mind is anxiously awaiting whatever is next, take comfort in the city’s cadence—the humming, whirring rhythm of productivity and bizarre normalcy. There’s an energy in the city that creeps out of our winter-worn bodies each “spring.” It hypnotizes us to crave new encounters, new ideas, new people—anything novel! That maddening desire for the new, new, new culminates with an explosion by late summer, only to leave us tired for the next season of snow. 

But we’re not there yet.
We’re only on the cusp of it all. 

The characters may change, yet the story remains the same.
And "so we beat on…” 


So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past.
— from "The Great Gatsby"

The East Village Explosion

I’ve never walked down the middle of my street before. But today cars are haphazardly parked on the closed off road, while police officers and Con Ed workers pace around restricted areas.

An explosion at the western corner of my block, near 7th Street and 2nd Ave, rocked the East Village neighborhood of Manhattan on March 26. One building collapsed that afternoon, while another two fell before dawn the next day. Pockets of fire smoldered until morning, and most of the surrounding streets are open only to residents.

On the afternoon of the blast, I was working at my office several avenues away. Even there, we could smell the smoke-tinged air. “Where do you think that’s coming from?” a co-worker asked. We walked to the window and were greeted with ominous black clouds coming from the direction of my home. I Googled “East Village fire,” but nothing relevant popped up—then I quickly checked Twitter, only to see my apartment’s cross streets trending.  

But of course, as with all news stories that break on the internet, the facts were garbled. So I turned on my heel, told the boss I’d be back, and ran toward my (suddenly worrisome) address.

Two things very quickly happened: First, as I rounded the corner of 9th Street and 2nd Ave, I realized that my apartment was in the clear. But at that moment, I also began to understand the severity of the fire, and the effect it would have on the whole neighborhood. Within hours, dozens of small business and homes would be inaccessible for days—or weeks. 

I watched the fire consume my favorite fry place, and then make its way to an old bodega. The sad and confused faces of the crowd stubbornly looked on as the flames burned brick after brick, while cops yelled “move back!” and fireman sprinted.  

“Hi, I live here,” I said much later that night. I was standing on 1st Ave, exhausted and concerned. Yellow tape blocked the entrance to my street.
“Can I see some ID?” The cop looked at me incredulously. “Only residents can access 7th Street.”
“Uh… My ID is from Virginia.”
 “You don’t have a New York ID?”

I looked at him, confirming the previously stated. Then I rummaged around my purse, slightly panicked, and found a letter from my grandmother, addressed to yours truly.
“That works,” he said apologetically.

When I got home, I shut the bathroom window, plugged in a fan, and let ashy air circulate out of the tiny room. As I got ready for bed, helicopters began to hover with a constant whir-whir-whiring that would last the whole night. I wasn’t going to sleep a wink—but then again, at least I had my bed. 

***

New York is a resilient city; you have to be prepared for both the expected and unforeseen highs and lows of life if you’re living on an island with 8 million other eclectic human beings, all of whom are fighting for jobs, for lovers, or even for space.

But occasionally, you get to witness New Yorkers fighting for other New Yorkers. Free coffees were passed out, hotel rooms were set up for the homeless, and clothing drives began the next day. If this city knows how to do anything, it’s how to make something happen overnight.

So as I walk down the middle of my street, and thank God my little corner of this world is still intact, I am grateful to see some small bit of beauty amidst the chaos of this cold spring. 

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Here's what one (admittedly kooky) plumber had to say about the East Village explosion. For privacy purposes we shall call him "Alfonso" from XYZ Plumbing Company. 


Want to donate to the New Yorkers who lost their homes? Click here for information.


The First Interview

“So you’re from Virginia and you’re moving to New York for grad school.”

The blonde HR representative smiled across the desk at me. He was thin, and wore a well-tailored black suit with no tie. His office smelled a bit like mold, but it was kept cool despite the suffocating heat that had enveloped New York City in the summer of 2010. 

“Yes, I’m headed to Pace University to get my Masters in publishing,” I said with my best interview smile. I looked him directly in the eye, like he was the only person in the universe I had any interest in.

Which, at the time, wasn’t far from the truth. I needed to scoop up a job (any job) as quickly as possible. School was starting in a month, and I’d yet to secure a place to live or any form of income. This is why I sat in the basement of Bloomingdale's, applying for a part-time sales position at $12 an hour—after graduating with honors from college.

The past two months had been a humbling experience, to say the least. I’d quickly learned that if you hoped to work in the editorial field, you needed connections. While this realization reaffirmed my decision to dish out thousands for grad school, it also crushed my idealistic hopes of immediately beginning my career as the ever-coveted “writer type.”

Basically, I was no special snowflake.

bloomindales-soho.jpeg

“So tell me about your work experience,” Ned smiled.

“Well…” I told him I was a leader, but a team player. I wasn’t afraid of hard work. I respected my managers, and did he need a reference? I could communicate, I loved people, and I understood the customer was always right even when they were oh-so wrong. Couldn’t he see? I was MEANT to work at Bloomingdales!

Apparently I’d passed the first test. Two more executives wanted to “chat,” if I still had time. “Absolutely,” I smiled, silently praying that no one would ask me in-depth questions about fashion.

“Huh. So you live in Newark, New Jersey?” the last (and most intimidating) of my interviewers asked.

“Live” is a word that depends on how you define it.
“Yes,” I smiled. If you count “living” as crashing in a friend’s closet near a church in the projects—then yes. I lived in Newark.

“How is it…?” she asked with some hesitance.
“Great!” I replied enthusiastically.  

If you count “great” as sleeping on the roof of an apartment when the AC blows out, or needing to be home before dark because it’s moderately dangerous for a girl to walk around past 9PM—then yes. It was great.

“They have excellent Brazilian barbecue,” I added for legitimacy.

The truth was, I had no intention of staying in New Jersey for long, but I didn’t want to appear unsettled. Salesgirls in New York City are a dime a dozen, so why give HR a chance to worry? 

(They also didn’t need to know that, just to get to this interview, I’d taken the midnight Chinatown bus by way of Virginia, and walked from Canal Street to 34th Street with my luggage at 6:45AM. Because I couldn’t find the right subway. Or a map.) 

The other truth: I had no intention of working at Bloomingdale's for long. This was a pit stop; a job I would probably grow to hate, and eventually run from the second I had the opportunity to do so.

But every New Yorker needs a job they take, only to make rent. And every college graduate needs to discover life is hard, and getting what you want is even more difficult. I was in the midst of this realization so I unabashedly continued to fake an optimistic smile.

“Can you start Monday?” she asked. 
“Of course,” I replied with practiced nonchalance.  

I had three days. Three days to go back to Virginia, pack my things, find an apartment, and move to New York. Many people had made this same jump before, so I took confidence in the city's collective story.  

Walking out of Bloomingdale's into the afternoon sun, I felt genuine thrill.
What a frantic adventure this life would be. 

The above picture was snapped at The Raccoon Lodge the day I'd gotten  a job offer. (My feet are, to this day, terrified of wearing heels in the city, thanks to this rookie "night on the town."


Our life always expresses the result of our dominant thoughts.
— Soren Kierkegaard

Doing the Polite Thing

I am not a “gym rat.”

In fact, I might be the opposite—a “foot cat,” perhaps? I’ve never enjoyed being indoors, wearing cute yoga clothes, or showering and redoing my hair everyday. That all sounds tremendously repetitive, which I don’t endure well.

Alas, it’s winter and this insomniac can’t sleep unless exhausted. So I did something I haven’t done in 4.5 years: You guessed it… I joined a gym.

Now, as a novice to this whole healthy living thing, I was a wee bit nervous on my first visit. There are rules to every social sphere in life—and I knew the gym world of New York City would be no different. Should I pack a workout bag, or could I stuff the necessities in my trusty purse? Did I need to buy a lock, or would they sell them there?

“It’s polite to use a towel,” my boyfriend had gently reminded me the day before.
I scrunched up my nose. “Why do I need a towel?”
“Because, you know… if you sweat, you’re supposed to clean off the machines. And it says online that this gym doesn’t have a towel service.”

(I wanted to ask him, “How hard do you think I’ll be working out?” But I refrained, knowing that he too was only trying to be, well, polite.)

Bring a towel, bring a towel… His words echoed in my mind as I haphazardly packed my first-ever exercise duffle. I didn’t have a proper “gym towel,” so I ran with the second best option and grabbed a rainbow plaid dishtowel instead.

That’ll do, I thought as I locked up and headed forth on my grand adventure to the land of ellipticals and protein shakes!

The sign-in process and locker room hustle went off without a hitch. My gym wasn’t too crowded so I quickly jumped onto a machine, and did that thing gym rats do, dishtowel in hand.

Call it paranoia but I began to notice a few people looking in my direction. Was I doing something wrong? Was my dishtowel offensive? Mildly embarrassed, I shoved the plaid cloth into the cup holder of my machine and finished up a decent work out.

As I repined my hair in the locker room post-run, a woman about my age approached me. “Sorry, but there’s no toilet paper in this stall,” she said, looking at me expectantly.

I don’t mind passing toilet paper between stalls, or even walking some over to a helpless person who’s mid-squat and sh*t out of luck (pun, intended). But I couldn’t fathom why this chick would specifically ask me for toilet paper when she had two perfectly good legs.

“Uh… Well I see some in that stall,” I said, pointing.
“Oh! You don’t work here?” she asked.
“Ha, nope. Sorry.”  

After she apologized, I continued looking in the mirror for a second, wondering what she saw in me that screamed “gym employee.” I by no means look like a trainer (and I was still holding that blasted dishtowel).

But as I turned to go, I saw the reason.
I knew why she thought I worked at Blink Fitness.

Across my back read the words “STAFF” in big, white letters. The t-shirt was a relic from my camp counselor days—and the exact same color as the employees’ shirts. This locker room revelation also explained why people were starring at me on the elliptical...

Life suddenly seemed a little less confusing.
I should have thanked TP girl.

So here’s what I learned on my first visit to the gym:
1) Don’t wear a shirt that says “STAFF” on it.
2) Dishtowels are only moderately acceptable.
3) If you DO bring a dishtowel, you need to own it. Be proud!
4) On second thought, maybe just buy a gym towel.
5) Or, ask your friends to steal you a gym towel from a fancier gym... #BOOM

Yes, it actually says, "Flex that smile." 

3 Reasons to Love New York

Rush hour in NYC is the abrupt, fast-pace rat race that you’d imagine it to be. In fact, there’s a certain thrill to making your train, making the light, and making it to work alive (sans coffee stains or black eyes).

With nearly 8 million people moving ungracefully about the city, it isn’t the time for pleasantries. Rarely is anyone outlandishly rude—but best of luck getting a conversation or smile out of a New Yorker doing their daily dash to the 6 train.

Think of it this way: If you were getting in your car, headed to work and a bit rushed, would you be overly chatty if at every stop light someone frantically knocked on your window and screamed, “PLEASE! PLEASE, TELL ME WHERE THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING IS?!”

I’m guessing you would help, because you’re a good person.

But somewhere around the 9th time this happens, you’d begin to give hasty instructions with a shadow of a smile. The truth is most commuters simply don their headphones, zoning out the distress that is New York City from 7-9am and 5-7pm.

New York Subway Britney Fitzgerald

Now, take the people and puffy coats and the messenger bags and backpacks and, of course, the precarious coffee cups—take all of that nonsense, and stuff it into a crowded subway car.

Then add the dreaded suitcase.

That’s right… I was traveling home for the holidays and boarding a crowded N train with my terrible blue suitcase. He often acts out when under pressure, doing irritable things like getting stuck in doors, rolling over people’s toes, or even battling with other luggage for more space. Plus he’s usually too heavy to lift over the subway turnstile, so I have to do this strange swipe, push luggage under the bar, catch luggage with foot, walk through turnstile move.

So by the time I got to Hell on Earth (also known as Penn Station), I was exhausted and irritable. But the good news was 1) I was going home to visit my family and 2) I had time to run to the nearby Starbucks for a quick cup of caffeine.

“Following guest, please step forward.”

The line was long, per the usual. By the time five people were left in front of me, I began to nervously check my iPhone's clock—I’d still make the train to Richmond, right?

“Following guest, please step forward.”

“You can get in front of me,” said an Indian man with a striped scarf. 
“Oh, it’s OK. No worries,” I smiled back.
“I’m not waiting for a train.”
He grinned and moved behind me.
“Wow…uh, cool. Thanks so much."

“Following guest, please step forward.”

“I’m not waiting for a train either—my son’s about to arrive!” a plump blonde woman said in front of me, beaming. You could tell she was beyond delighted because her kid was coming home for the holidays. “Here, scoot up.” 

“Oh. Um… thank you,” I smiled, barely believing in a reality where two people let me cut the Starbucks line at Penn Station.

“Following guest, please step forward.”

If you’re a moderately astute reader, you can probably guess by the title of this blog post what’s about to happen: The man in front of me saw my prior line promotion and extended his hand, gesturing I step up to the counter. I thanked them all again, grabbed my coffee, and fought my way through Penn Station.

But I was fighting with a smile, dangit!
And for the next hour, I was doing something like this…

Because NOBODY cuts the rush hour Starbucks line.  
It's just one of those rare feats that must be celebrated. 
(Or at least blogged about.)


By comparison with other less hectic days, the city is uncomfortable and inconvenient; but New Yorkers temperamentally do not crave comfort and convenience—if they did they would live elsewhere.
— E.B. White