Reykjadalur Hike in Southern Iceland

July 3, 2016

If you’re seeking a simple day trip from Reykjavik or road tripping through the south of Iceland, here’s a hot spring-filled hike worth taking. After walking an hour through winding hills and valleys, you’ll be rewarded with a steamy stream to relax in—plus, catch some wild views of this otherworldly island.

Directions from Reykjavik

Hop onto Road 1 heading southeast toward Hveragerði. After about 40 minutes, you’ll come to a roundabout. Take the exit for Breiðamörk north, toward the Reykjadalur valley. This will lead you through Hveragerði’s main street and then down a gravel road—don’t worry, you’re still going the right way!

There’s a car park at the foot of the valley, as well as a café that’s open during peak travel season. Cross the small bridge by foot to reach the beginning of the trail. It’s well marked, and you will most likely see other travelers en route.

Hike Length

It took us about one hour to walk to the hot springs (with plenty of picture taking), and about 40 minutes to get back to the parking lot. It’s safe to give yourself at least 2.5 hours if you plan on swimming.

What to Bring

Since our hike took place in April, everyone wore layers to keep warm. We slipped bathing suits on under our shirts and packed a change of clothes, as well as small microfiber towels. There are no changing rooms—so our long coats doubled as one! Hiking boots are a must, considering the amount of mud in certain areas of the trail. Lastly: Don’t forget your camera, a snack, and a water bottle.

Don’t have a car?

There are several tours that will take you to Reykjadalur, though we found renting a car for our 6-day trip to be less expensive that taking individual tours.

Here's one of the earlier views during the hike. You can see the car park in the distance.

You'll find pockets of bubbling earth along your journey to the hot springs. Look, don't touch.

Here's what the Reykjadalur hike looks like in Spring—a coffee-colored mix of earth and snow.

The word "Reykjadalur" is translated to "steam valley." You can see why it was named that.

Even in April, you need a bathing suit in Iceland.

Hope you enjoy the hike! Have questions? Leave a comment below.

15 Things to Know About Iceland

June 7, 2016

I recently went on a six-day road trip with two friends through the south of Iceland. We hiked volcanic hills, sampled local cuisine, and witnessed the Panama Paper protests in Reykjavik. Our trip was incredible—but a good amount of research made for a smooth journey. Below are a few insights I was glad to know before embarking on our Nordic adventure.

1. Tipping

You don't need to tip in Iceland. No one is going to turn down your extra cash, but it’s already been included in the bill. This applies to both restaurants tabs and cab fares.

2. Car Rental

My travel crew rented a vehicle from Reykjavik Cars at Keflavik International Airport. It was pricey, but not shady. We opted for a 4X4 so that we could access most roads. I would recommend this to anyone planning to see more than the Golden Circle, especially if you're not traveling during the summer. We also paid a tad extra for gravel insurance so we didn’t have to hold our breath going over every little bump. (It was definitely worth the 7 Euro a day.) We skipped out on theft insurance, as well as sand and ash protection.

Quick tip: Never leave your car door open. The wind gusts in some areas of Iceland can push the doors back too far, and snap them off the hinges. This is an expensive fix! We thought the rental agency was joking when they warned us about this fascinating issue—until we visited Dyrhólaey lighthouse. My door almost blew off into the wind, like Dorthy in "The Wizard of Oz."

The view from Dyrhólaey lighthouse in the south of Iceland.

3. Iceland's Not Cheap

Iceland is more expensive than the average European country, but it can be done on a budget if you watch the food and lodging spend. Take free hikes, drive to the attractions yourself, and avoid group excursions. Restaurants were the real kicker—which leads us to the next tip.

4. Plan Out Your Meals

Buy breakfast food, PB&J fixings, and alcohol in Reykjavik. Most travelers agree that Bonus is the cheapest supermarket. You'll find a good number of restaurants along Ring Road, which we indulged in for dinner. But pack a bagged lunch for your hikes, grab some snacks for the car, and have toast or fruit for breakfast. That will save you a good $30 a day.

Alcohol is hard to find outside of the main cities. The hours for many liquor and wine shops are quite restrictive. Spirits are not sold at most grocery stores or gas stations, except for beer with a 2.25% ABV—which tricked us once in the town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. (And no, I didn't make up that word.) If you've left Reykjavik, state-run Vínbúðins are your best bet for purchasing cocktail ingredients.

Fun fact: Similar to United States, Iceland had a period of prohibition that began in 1915. While wine restrictions were lifted in 1921 and liquor restrictions in 1935, the sale of beer over 2.25% was illegal until 1989! Iceland now celebrates "Beer Day" on March 1 every year because it's the anniversary of the beer law reversal.

Iceland's southern town of Vik is surrounded by scenic cliffs and black sand beaches.

5. Cell Phones

I'd recommend purchasing a SIM card at the airport convenience store. It's cheap, and we used Google Maps on our phones during the entirety of the trip. (Also, Instagram.)

6. The Blue Lagoon

Sure, it's touristy. But the Blue Lagoon is totally worth the time, especially if you're coming to or from the airport. Situated about 30 minutes south of Keflavik International, this vast geothermal spa is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland. Because of it's popularity, be sure to pre-book your tickets.

Once you've arrived, you'll wait in a quick moving line to register a wristband. We opted for the "Comfort" package, which includes two mud masks, one drink, and—most importantly—a towel. Since we were boarding our planes back to the States right after our Blue Lagoon visit, this was an important perk.

Next, you'll move on to the locker rooms. There's enough storage for a purse, but it's wise to leave any luggage in the car. You can also rent a separate locker for larger bags if you're coming from the airport via bus—this storage center is located in a separate building, near the parking lot.

Before changing into your swimsuit you must shower. The staff requires it! If you're terrified of being naked in front of other people, there are several private showers. Be sure to leave a bit of extra conditioner in your hair because the silica in the water can wreak havoc on your locks.

My final tip: Give yourself enough time to enjoy the experience. We arrived at 11 a.m., but weren't in the water until about 11:40. After our (relaxing) swim, it took us another 40 minutes to shower again, dress, dry our hair, and return wristbands. We needed to be at the gate by 4 p.m., and our reservation gave us a healthy amount of time to return the rental car, go through Customs, grab a bite to eat before takeoff, etc.

7. Icelandic vs. English

Everyone we met spoke perfect English. Icelanders have a deliciously witty sense of humor, with a sprinkle of sarcasm. So don’t worry, my fellow Americans. You will easily be able to communicate in this country.

8. Drinking Water

The water (especially near Reykjavik) smells like sulfur—but drink it! We couldn't taste a thing. Don't let a whiff of rotten eggs deter you from sampling some of the cleanest water in the world. Plus, you’ll save a fortune not buying over-priced bottles of agua.

9. Unpredictable Weather

Iceland's weather is erratic during any given season. We traveled to the island in early April and were lucky to experience very little precipitation. That said, some roads to attractions we wanted to see were closed from previous snow storms, so we had to be flexible with our plans. The best method? Map out your dream route before flying to Iceland. Then, each night, sit down and see what looks plausible for the next day based on weather conditions and time restraints.

Geysir Hot Springs on Iceland's popular Golden Circle.

10. Clothing

(See "What to Wear in Iceland: 15 Essentials for Cold Weather" to view a full packing list!)

You should pack a variety of clothes, especially if you're traveling in the winter or during the shoulder seasons (Apr-May and Sept-Oct). I can only attest to personal preferences during the month of April, but my uniform consisted of a sweater, jeans, waterproof boots, and a down jacket. Somedays I slipped into a lighter coat; other days I bundled up with a scarf and hat. The high was typically between 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit, so it wasn't much different than April in New York City. Here's a handy guide of the average temperatures in Iceland by month.

My two most important purchases before the trip were a pair of "duck boots" from L.L. Bean, and a water-resistant backpack. They both survived rain, mud, snow, and 13 days of hiking.

Oh, and don't forget a bathing suit! The island is basically one big hot spring, so always pack swimwear and a small towel for hikes. You never know what body of steaming, crystal clear water you might jump into.

Heather and I enjoying the hot springs at Hveragerdi, 40 minutes east of Reykjavik.

11. Icelandair

Look into Icelandair’s stopover program if you're flying from the United States to Europe, or vise versa. I was able to find a decent deal from London to Iceland to Dulles, and it's free to "stopover" on the island as long as you're staying for 7 nights or less.

12. Shopping

Visitors can shop tax free in Iceland. When purchasing items like wool or fur, be sure to ask the salesclerk for a Tax Free Form. At the airport, head over to the Customs desk before checking in for your flight and get a stamp on your form. Refunds can take up to three months. Here’s a wee bit more information.

13. Bring a Camera

Iceland is made for those who love photography and a bit of adventure. Bring a decent camera so you can capture the beauty of the island. Also, your iPhone will not be able to take photos of the Northern Lights—you’ll need a DSLR and a tripod for that magic. I use a Canon Rebel and upgraded a 50mm lens for up-close, portrait shots.

Alice standing on the black sand beaches of Vik, near a basalt cave.

14. CONVERTERS

Don't forget an outlet converter! Iceland uses the Europlug/Schuko-Plug, which has two round prongs. Every place we stayed provided a hair dryer, so we didn't have to worry about voltage issues. Here’s the converter I prefer.

15. AIRBNB AND GUEST HOUSES

If you’re interested in staying at an Airbnb while visiting Reykjavik, I'd highly suggest the Old Bike Shop. We met a ton of travelers here and found the family to be extremely hospitable. They chatted with us each night about our adventures, offered up suggestions, and discussed Icelandic culture. Wherever you stay in Reykjavik, try and be near the busy, restaurant-filled streets of Hallgrímskirkja and Laugavegur so you can wander without a vehicle.

Finding Airbnbs outside of Reykjavik proved to be quite difficult, particularly in the Southeast. Expedia.com and Booking.com were a great tool for securing rooms, reading reviews, and searching through lists of amenities. Cottages and "guest houses" are popular in Iceland, many of which are family owned.

The most high-end place we stayed was the Farmhouse Lodge outside Vik. The wifi was strong, the beds were comfy, breakfast was included, and our host offered up a slew of helpful recommendations. On the opposite end of the spectrum, our cheapest nights were spent at Horgsland Cottages. There were pros and cons here. Positives: We each had our own rooms, there were two large hot tubs, and it was a fabulous price. Cons: The internet never worked, the property is large so you'll rarely interact with the host, and the shower was tiny! But overall, it was worth the price and we enjoyed our time drinking wine and searching for the Northern Lights in a hot tub full of excited travelers.

“To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, to gain all while you give. To roam the roads of lands remote, to travel is to live.”

— Hans Christian Andersen

#EuROADtrip2016

March 25, 2016

For the next two weeks, I’m going to take a short break from New York City and dive into another adventure: Scotland, London, and Iceland.

My youngest sister Grace and I are flying to Scotland on the day I’m “penning” this. In Glasgow, we’ll meet up with Alice who is, in short, one of my closest friends from the high school years, my previous Eurasia travel buddy, and a teacher in London. We’ll tour the Highlands and visit Glencoe, Fort William, Isle of Skye, Inverness, and Aviemore. It will most likely rain the entire time we’re gallivanting around this country—but I packed a poncho! And yes, there will be castle hunting and Scotch tastings.

Grace flies home five days later on March 30, while Alice and I continue south to London. I’ll see where she lives, the school she teaches at in Surrey, as well as spend a pinch of time in the city centre. After sipping some tea (and maybe doing laundry), we’ll fly west to Reykjavik.

In Iceland, Alice and I will meet up with New York friend, ex-East Village neighbor, and travel extraordinaire, Heather. None of us have visited this country of “fire and ice” before, so we’ll start with the basics: Blue Lagoon, Golden Circle, the southern town of Vik, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. We hope to catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, but the chances are 50/50 this time of year. I’d also like to spot a puffin and a wild Icelandic horse.

After a six-day road trip through this unbelievably epic looking country, I fly back to Virginia to see one of best friends from college get married. I’m also honored to be one of Steph’s bridesmaids, so even when my trip is over I have something incredible to look forward to back in the States.

(This celebration also makes packing an adventure in itself. Can someone remind me to text Boyfriend and tell him to pack my dress shoes? They don’t fit in this blasted suitcase!)

We’re praying for safe travels, decent weather, and remarkable memories. Also, a tremendous “thank, you kindly” to everyone who sent us travel advice, restaurant suggestions, and lodging tips.

I’ll be a bit disconnected from the world, but will most likely buy a SIM card with a tiny data plan. So… I’ll see you on Instagram ;)

The (Hidden) Paths of Santorini

August 29, 2015

Tip #1: The Greek Islands do not believe in signs.

I stared at the map again; then flipped to page 219 in my guidebook. “A magical way to reach the village [of Oia, Greece] is along a cliff edge walkway that rambles north from Firá… You’ll pass sage green slopes splattered with wild flowers, rich red- and coffee-colored earth and views of blue, blue sea.”

I looked up and down the dirt road, and plucked a sweaty piece of hair from my forehead. You can politely assume that I too looked “magical.”

“Alice, let’s ask this guy where the footpath is.” My travel buddy and I explained to the teenage boy what we were looking for, only to be told he’d never heard of it. We then walked toward the coast, confused, and began to follow a stone street through a quaint marketplace. Finally, we found two women who knew of this ever-elusive footpath.

“You’re on it!” one of them said with a grin. “But it’s very far till Oia, and too hot.”

This was not the first time we’d been told that Mediterranean weather would destroy us. Every morning, Alice and I munched on Greek yogurt with sweetbread at our B&B in Perissa Beach. And every morning, the House Mamma would ask us our plans, then exclaim, “Where are your hats!?” It was my assumption she’d seen many pale-skinned guests turn into depressed lobsters.

“Thank you, we’ll be fine. We have water!” Alice and I said to our helpers. They wanted to know how much water, how much sunscreen, and how much time we had. This interrogation was only slightly concerning—but we passed their quiz and began our journey.

Tip 2: Always listen to Greek mothers.

“Going to DIE,” I said dramatically to Alice a few hours later.

The views of Santorini and had been more than breathtaking. But after walking through a pristine resort town, full of infinity pools with sunbathers sipping cold cocktails, and then skirting the edge of a cliff, we’d arrived at a steep hill full of hot pumice rocks that burned through my shoes.

Hot rocks on the long road to Oia. Don't wear sandals.

I looked like a fool, hopping up the slopes of the coast like an ungraceful mountain goat, with a heavy camera attached to my neck. There were only two sips left in my water bottle, and yet we had hours till our final destination. To make matters more absurd, we'd lost the "magical" path again.

(Note: It was at this exact moment that I thought about those Israelites who wandered the desert for 40 years—how utterly terrible.)

“Tomorrow. Beach. Vacation,” I said through dry lips. I knew Alice would agree. The heat was truly incredible, killing off our conversation until we found a patch of shade under a lone tree.

Seven miles and four some hours post start time, we dragged our feet into a taverna on the cliffs of Oia. I ordered a beer while Alice sampled their honey-encrusted baklava. We didn’t talk much as our bodies unwound.

Then that beautiful globe in the sky began to sink into a blanket of reds, pinks, and purples. The sun moved faster in Santorini—it appeared to be diving into the horizon. We watched from the roof of the taverna, completely transfixed. How could that be the same sun I admired back in New York City?

Tip 3: Cliffside hikes in Santorini are always worth it. But bring at least 2 bottles of water—and read Tip 2 again.

[Editor's Note: This blog post is centered around a 2014 trip to Athens, Santorini, Mykonos, and Istanbul. I finally decided to blog about it a year later. Below are some photos and tips, in case you ever decide to visit!]

While in Santorini, Alice and I stayed at the Santa Barbara Hotel, about a block away from the black sand coast of Perissa Beach. Breakfast was included for about $35/night.

One of the resorts in Fira we walked past. How we longed to jump into that pool...

On the hike from Fira to Oia, you'll pass several pockets of resort towns, go over a few rock-filled hills, and occasionally lose the "path." Tip: Just follow the coast and keep going north.

Santorini was formed by a volcano (not pictured), hence all the pumice rocks and multicolored beaches around the island.

When you Google Santorini, the town of Oia is what comes up first. Note: The sunsets are world-famous, so pick your viewing spot out early. People start arriving about an hour before the sun sinks.

Alice's baklava, which I definitely sampled.

Those Jazzy Days of Summer

July 23, 2015

The Fashion Girls of 7th Avenue are always easy to spot. They’re skinny little things, with striking angles in strange places. Diet Coke in hand, they wisp down the street. But their faces are a little too sallow, and by the end of the day their chic messy buns often just look… messy.

I don’t envy them, I thought while consuming Taco Bell from the passenger seat of a rented Tahoe. The Fashion Girl in my line of vision was perched on the sidewalk, struggling with an umbrella that refused to open. We drove on and I silently wished her all the best.

A mash-up of Phantogram and Vallis Alps played as we stuffed our faces with “tacos” and “burritos.” Three guys in the backseat laughed at something seemingly hilarious, while a sudden storm exploded in the night sky. The SUV barreled away from the city, the Poconos our distant destination.

In my mind, there’s a jazzy song from the 1920s playing all summer long in New York. The cadence of crowds on-the-go fits the high notes of exploding trumpets; our feet always moving to a four-beat rhythm. But once away from the city's addictive pull, everything slows down...

The next morning I awoke to the smell of bacon rising from the kitchen of our borrowed lake house. My fan hummed as I changed into a bathing suit and shorts—why bother with clothes when it’s that warm? After brushing my teeth, I threw my makeup bag and sundresses into a suitcase, where they would sit for the rest of the weekend.

Ah, freedom. Lashes undone and my hair in a true messy bun, I chowed down on food in the Pennsylvania heat. (And I silently wondered if that Fashion Girl with the pesky umbrella liked being skinny as much as I liked bacon. #BreakfastThoughts)

For the next three days, I didn’t change out of my swim clothes—that’s the beauty of vacation. Yes, there was a shower at some point. But not even an hour went by post-shampoo before I was back in the lake.

We lounged in giant inner tubes by day, collecting golden freckles or weird sunburns. At night we’d cook sizzling burgers and mash limes for homemade margaritas. If you’d peeked into our cottage, you’d have seen coral tee shirts, scuffed up flip-flops, and several gin drinks lying about. Oh… and also a piñata from Walmart.

It’s in these moments that I sense the comfort of summer.

That familiar feeling, charged with nostalgia and the unexpected, haunts me all year. In my admittedly bias opinion, summer is the most tangible of the seasons. It’s salty, sweaty, and the East Coast humidity seeps into your every pore.

But something about warm weather makes us more agreeable to anything of the slightest interest. “Yes” to one more drink; “yes” to seeing the sunrise; “yes” to it all.

Coming back from vacation is always slightly depressing—but at least in July when you return to New York, she welcomes you with a warm, dewy hug. Then that jazzy song in my mind starts playing once again, and the city dances, dances, dances…

The Fashion Girls of 7th Ave. tango with the Finance Boys of Park. Manhattanites drum up their nerve, jiving to hotspots in Brooklyn. Wealthy Upper East Siders salsa off to the Hamptons…
And everyone left just keeps dancing.
As fast as they can.

The city dances, dances, dances—with a cocktail in its hand.

The Time We Thought We'd Die on Vacation

December 17, 2014

After that first year of living in New York City, you begin to realize the importance of quietly escaping our buzzing epicenter of a town every few months—the absence will keep you sane.

I have a group of friends scattered throughout NYC who vacation together 2-3 times a year. We call these little trips "The Classic," which can be shortened for social media purposes to #Classic, but should typically remain a proper noun.

The Classic entails a lengthy (and at times, aggressive) email chain. Schedules are discussed, budgets are outlined, projects are assigned, and many gifs are used to express bursts of digital emotion. After renting a car—or occasionally doing it youth group style with a 15 passenger van—and finding a house on Airbnb, we embark on our grand adventure.

But last month’s Classic to a Catskills farmhouse was truly something special.

“So, a woman is staying here, too…while we’re here. And she’s, uh, well… she’s interesting,” a friend said with sincere confusion upon my car’s arrival. As if on cue, a plump lady with frizzy white hair sticking out of a knit cap entered the room and shuffled by.

Oh.
Oh my.
That was Pat.
And Pat owned this property.

The downstairs of the farmhouse was strangely chopped up, with random beds and bathrooms haphazardly sprinkled throughout. The only source of warmth was a wood stove in the living room, and since it was 12 degrees outside, this “rustic” feature wasn’t exactly a selling point. The upstairs consisted of a long, creepy hallway with mirrors and rooms.

And all of these rooms had doors.
And all of these doors locked from the outside.

Weekend Rule #1: Never leave the group for more than 10 minutes at a time.

“Did someone say they needed garlic salt?” We were now in the kitchen prepping the traditional Classic chili. Omniscient Pat popped out of nowhere, wide-eyed and questioning. I noticeably jumped, eyeing the knives that hung on the wall beside her.

Weekend Rule #2: ALWAYS announce yourself when coming into a room.

After a whiskey or two, the group relaxed and decided to head outside for a late-night bonfire. But we found something quite particular toward the side of the house: A pentagram, or five-point star popular with Satanists and cults, had been tiled into an old concrete patio. A fire pit sat in the middle of the eerie symbol.

Weekend Rule #3: If you think you are about to be sacrificed, please alert a member of the group.

As I walked into the kitchen for a chili refill, a friend and I noticed several magnets advertising a website about forgiveness on the refrigerator. We eyed each other and began nervously laughing—of course the cult leader was a fan of being pardoned.

But the internet led us to some fascinating discoveries. First, our host was in fact a “healer,” known for her ability to speak to other dimensions. And apparently, our weekend farmhouse also doubled as a “retreat center” for people seeking forgiveness, with the help of Archangel Michael and the Circle of something somethings…

“How’s the fire going?” I stumbled backwards, as Pat shuffled into the kitchen. I closed her blog on my phone, and produced a weak grin. “Fine!” I squeaked.

She looked at me.
I looked at her.

“There’s an axe in the corner of the den, if you need it.”

Um…
Eh…
Someone was definitely going to die tonight.

(This is the point in a scary movie when you start screaming at the television, “No! Don’t go in there. TURN AROUND!”)

But Pat shuffled away, and didn’t reappear for the rest of the evening.

The sun rose the next morning.
Our house slowly stirred to life.
The coffee began to brew...
And no bodies were found.

Pat popped into the kitchen that second day. I found her much less terrifying in the early-afternoon light, munching on a blueberry pancake. In fact, she said our group was like the “family she’d never had.”
<Insert questionably sinister grin?>

So, I suppose it all worked out just fine...
The moral of the story:
New York City is much safer than Upstate New York.